Farmers’ Formula: Recipes from the Market

The Ingredient: Summer Squash Blossoms

These edible flowers are one of the loveliest things to grow in a garden. Growing right on the squash vine are male and female blossoms, easily distinguishable from each other in the most human of ways: While the male blossoms bloom on a normal-looking flower stem, the females begin with a small bulge at the base of their petals, which is the developing squash itself.

Squash is a New World vegetable that still holds a variation of its native name; the Massachusetts Indians called it askutasquash. A member of the gourd family, squash can be easily divided into two groups: summer squash, which is harvested while the skin is still soft and includes yellow squash and zucchini; and winter squash with its hard-rinded spaghetti and butternut squash varieties. Both groups have blossoms, but they are much more readily harvested in summer. The Native Americans valued the seeds of squash for medicinal properties, and the pulp of the produce—most notably winter squashes with dark orange flesh—contains anticancer carotenoids. All squash are high in vitamin C, potassium, calcium and fiber.

The blossoms may be eaten raw or cooked. When harvesting, it is important to harvest the male blossoms and not the females, as they grow in greater abundance, unless you are trying to reduce production on the vine. And even then, make sure you leave enough to continue pollination. The blossoms need to be eaten immediately after harvesting, and won't last more than a day, even if carefully rinsed and refrigerated. When preparing them, make sure you carefully snap off the pistil without damaging the petals. Then rinse and dry with paper towels. 

The Meal: Waldy Malouf's Baked Squash Blossoms with Ricotta and Honey

I usually try to use one of my own recipes or one that I have modified for Farmers' Formula, but this time I'm borrowing it straight from New York Magazine's recipe section. This recipe belongs to Waldy Malouf of New York City's Beacon restaurant, and it is simply beautiful.

(It is designed as a dessert, but methinks you could swap out the cookie crumbs for a traditional breadcrumb with a pinch of sea salt and serve it as a slightly sweet hors d'oeuvre as well, accompanied by an Italian Prosecco.)

1½ pounds good-quality fresh ricotta cheese

½ cup honey

1 egg white

18 squash blossoms (12 if they're enormous)

1 whole egg, beaten with a tablespoon of water

2 cups dry chocolate-cake crumbs or cookie crumbs

Butter for greasing cookie sheet

Preheat oven to 350. Combine cheese, honey, and egg white. (1) Using a pastry tube or a teaspoon, stuff the squash blossoms about half-full with the cheese mixture. Twist top of blossom to seal. (2) Brush each blossom with the egg wash. (3) Roll each blossom in the cake crumbs and place on a buttered cookie sheet. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until warm, lightly browned, and crisp.

Enjoy!

Suggested wine pairing: Try an off-dry or semi-sweet sparkling wine with this dessert, such as an Asti from the Piedmont region of Italy, with a soft peach sweetness to mirror the honey and a crisp acidity and sharp effervescence to cut the creaminess of the ricotta and cookie crumbs.