Tortilla Flats Celebrates Day of the Dead

is a restaurant in the heart of Soquel Village with a whole lot of corazón. Sunday's, “Dining with our Ancestors,” event was an outpouring of love for Mexican cuisine, art, traditions and friends, and it was the first private party that owner Cheryl Marquez has hosted in over 30 years of food events.

The event featured a prix fixe menu and a talk by Catalina Delgado Trunk, an artist born and raised in Mexico City who specializes in papel picado, the folk art made from intricately-cut paper.

As 45 lucky guests sipped wine and dined on their coconut prawn and poblano chile relleno appetizers, the artist took them on a walk through the underworld, in a talk that addressed the origins of the Mexican holiday Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead.

“Mexican culture is a culture of synthesis," Trunk said. "It’s the synthesis of two very different cultures coming together and melting into this rich culture that is the Mexican culture.” 

Day of the Dead traditions began in the 1530s, and they are rooted in pre-Columbian Mexico, when humans were believed to be a bridge between heaven and earth, and it was our job to maintain the balance between heaven and earth. Where you went in your afterlife was not determined by how you lived, but in how you died, explained the artist. 

“Death is the most democratic institution in the world,” Trunk joked, as she explained the folklore behind Tras Los Catrines, one of her intricate paper cut outs. The scene depicts two glamorously-clad skeletons. One is the maid who had borrowed her mistress’s clothes to go to a party, and the other is her mistress, who also went to a party the night the two women died. The moral of the story is that in death, class lines are imperceptible. 

The artist also explained many components of the ofrenda, or altar, that is set up for Dia de Los Muertos at the beginning of October until the actual holiday on the first two days of November. The ofrenda is meant to keep deceased relatives equipped with food, tools, money and gifts on their voyage through the underworld. 

The well-known sugar skulls you often see in Day of the Dead altars are a variation of the pre-Columbian human figurines which were made from amaranth seeds.

"You will never find a sugar skull in cultures that are indigenous," Trunk said.

Missionaries deemed the figurines "pagan" and prohibited the growth of amaranth until the 1930s, but somehow the sugar skulls were an accepted substitute on the altars.

"[Trunk] is such a scholar, and she could go on for years," said Cheryl Marquez, owner of Tortilla Flats. 

Trunk wrapped up her talk just as the smells of lunch wafted from the kitchen. The main course choices were Frida's peanut mole, squash blossom crepas and a pork mole manchemanteles, literally meaning "tablecloth stainers," made with ancho, pasilla, and chipotle chiles, and sweetened with plantains, raisins, figs, mangoes and pineapple.

"Of course there's a difference between Mexican cuisine now and Mexican cuisine 50 years ago," said Tortilla Flats Manager Paul Brennan, referring to the squash blossom crepas which were nuanced with huitlacoche, a delicacy also known as the "Mexican truffle," which grows on the end of corn and is hard to find.

The crowd was pleased with the fare as well.

“I think what is so unique about Cheryl is her culinary ability to match spices and the nuances of ingredients to create sauces that are so unique," said Tortilla Flats patron Lynn Pielow. "She grows the peppers and many ingredients in her own home.” 

The intimate gathering, which included many artists, local foodies and even the film producer and founder of El Teatro Campesino, Luis Valdez (La Bamba, Zoot Suit, I am Joaquin) enjoyed lemon crepas and Cognac for dessert. 

“For me, it’s a confluence of art, food and Mexico. I’ve spent the afternoon immersed in my three loves, with the love of my life,” said Betsy McNair, local artist of the cookbook Mexicocina.

Other locals left with inspiration and new-found knowledge about the Day of the Dead.

"I was sitting there listening and just got so jealous about all of the philosophy behind this art," said local painter Charles Rath. "I got the art degree and I like to paint pretty pictures but I don't have the philosophy behind it."

Tortilla Flats is located at 4616 Soquel Dr., Soquel.