Fraiche: New Chef to Revamp Menu

What's not to like about Fraiche? I've been there several times, and each time is a charming medley of food, ambiance and service.  But is on the move, ushering in a new chef to stay competitive with the swelling crowds at nearby restaurants who have lower prices and packed patios.  

His name is Ben Bailly, formerly from West Hollywood's Petrossian. For those of you who've been following since it opened about three years ago, you may remember Chef Elderoy Arendse, who filled in for chef Jason Travi after he and Thierry Perez both moved on to open the now departed Riva in Santa Monica.

Riva then became the second outpost for Fraiche, and Perez left to work at a few other familiar places, including .  Perez is now at the helm at L'Epicerie Market, scheduled to open later this month near the .

Change is good—and as many of us know—chefs come and go like the tide. Apparently Ben has come on board as part of a Fraiche revamping to attract a younger crowd, and to make their place more fun and casual to attract the everyday diner.

For those of you who have been to Fraiche, it has largely catered to well-heeled foodies where price isn't an object.  There are less expensive places dotted all along  Culver Boulevard, but Fraiche has stood alone in the downtown area as a culinary beacon for fine dining.

The new menu will focus on smaller plates, less expensive options, a weekend brunch as well as food and alcohol pairings. It sounds like a good move.

We went there for lunch, and were wowed by the new offerings, despite a few "mishaps" in the kitchen that put a dismal delay in the usually good service. All restaurants have their hiccup days. It was the food that was on stage that day.

Start with the Potted Smoked Trout ($8) with lemon, chives and crème fraiche. It's a dense spread of delight and filling enough to share. The Eggplant Caviar ($8) was also intriguing, with raisins and Marcona almonds, although we both preferred the trout.

There was also a lot of amplitude with their Grilled Chicken Salad ($14) although it was nothing out of the ordinary from what you'd find at most restaurants. Containing smoked ham, tomato, egg, avocado and blue cheese, it was more of a Cobb, but protein delight. Next time we'll try the Truffle Burger—one of Ben's signature dishes from his former life.

I was blown away by the Scottish Salmon ($19) with faro, black rice, baby spinach, lemon and saffron sauce.  The fish was pink and moist, with the grains adding a nice texture and flavor. I didn't see their famous Monkfish on the luncheon menu, so perhaps it's been ushered away by the new chef.

All is still swell at Fraiche. Now, if Culver City would build another parking lot, we'll all be happy campers.