Great Escape: Venture to Beverly Hills for a Taste of Red Medicine

Red Medicine, which opened a few months ago in Beverly Hills, is currently one of the most talked-about restaurants in the Los Angeles area. There are several reasons for that. First, its three partners have a most impressive, eclectic culinary pedigree. Second, chef/partner Jordan Kahn made a splash at Test Kitchen LA this summer introducing his cuisine. Third, anticipation of its opening—originally set for last July—had a chance to build. Fourth, there was the brouhaha over the restaurant's "outing" of Los Angeles Times restaurant reviewer S. Irene Virbila—which doesn’t matter so much now because Red Medicine pretty much rocks.

If you're looking for a Great Escape that's a culinary adventure, this is worth the drive from the San Fernando Valley.

Kahn honed his skills at 17 as the youngest cook in Thomas Keller’s kitchen at French Laundry and was part of a four-person pastry team. He went on to work in famed kitchens in New York, including Grant Achatz’s Alinea, and he has became renowned for his highly artistic work. Managing partner Noah Ellis is an impresario mixologist who worked with Michael Mina (and later together with Kahn at XIV) for nearly two decades; and partner Adam Fleischman, the Umami king, is probably the fastest growing restaurateur in Los Angeles (five Umamis and growing, Umamicatessen opening downtown, and in Westwood, a pizzeria called 800).

Red Medicine, named for an album by the punk band Fugazi, is Vietnamese, but as stated in the manifesto on the menu—“not a traditional Vietnamese restaurant.” It’s Vietnamese tapas—small plates to be shared—inspired by the spices and the soulful comfort of the food itself. As far as I know, there’s nothing quite like Red Medicine in Los Angeles.

Red Medicine is sleek and modern, yet casual and comfortable; a mix of reclaimed wood and concrete is warmed by dim lighting. You can have a conversation over the music. The vibe matches the food and drink—exciting and lively. It's open until 2 a.m., so you can come for a meal, or just for drinks and a nibble in the bar/lounge area and order from a smaller menu.

Ellis’ cocktail list is evolving, and there is nothing typical about it. The drinks are all $10 and numbered with variations of alcohols such as St. George Absinthe, Hayman’s Old Tom, Rye, Yuzu and Chrome Vodka; ingredients and flavors include chili-anise scrub, opal basil, grenadine, ginger beer, elder flower, bergamot, meyer lemon, Pages Parfait Amour and much more. Select craft beers and wine, which is directed under Fleischman, are available by the bottle or glass.

The menu is split into sections: Hands, Cold, Veg, Protein and Large Format (for parties of five or more). At first glance, it’s confusing because the ingredients are so different from what we are used to. There’s nothing odd or strange, but you may not have heard of some of the ingredients. That being said, you must have an open mind to enjoy the small-plate dining experience at Red Medicine. It was difficult to choose because almost everything seemed appealing. Our server, Frances-Olive, couldn’t have been more helpful in advising and answering our questions.

Two people should split six dishes. If you come hungry, perhaps more. You are served in no particular order, so if you are the type who wants certain tastes or temperatures timed during your meal, be sure to make that clear. Dishes run from $6 to $21, with most ranging from $9 to $16.

We started with the Brussels sprouts. If you don’t think you like the green, round veggies, think again. These came in a bowl topped with white foam-like pieces called shrimp chips. The sprouts were caramelized with shallots and mixed with vermouth and fish sauce. There were so tender that the sprouts were flattened into leafy texture. The sprouts do have that pungent taste, but the sweet-salt combination tempers it.

Next up were the chicken dumplings presented on a divided plate consisting of four dumplings, which are really meatballs infused with lemongrass, caramelized sugar and pork fat. They are accompanied by condiments such as cucumbers, a Sriracha sauce and scallions. Lettuce leaves are presented in a separate bowl for a wrap-up. The contrast of flavors sizzles in your mouth. Delicious.

A big twist on the traditional here is the Banh Mi, which usually could be viewed as a Vietnamese sub sandwich. The Red Medicine versions are sophisticated, delicate tea sandwiches filled with foie gras and pate de campagne, topped with mint and jalapenos. At about two or three bites each, they are the right amount.

I quite enjoyed the Kobacha dish, which has an earthy, sweet quality with the richness of the squash combined with Chinese sausage, burnt onion, chrysanthemum and a dollop of crème fraiche.

The duck, prepared with five-spice, chicory and tamarind syrup, is an exciting mix of sweet flavors with a bite set up by charred frisee. The duck is so tender it melts in your mouth.

A surprise dish was Kelley’s Mom’s Farm Egg. I always say that the only thing I don’t like is a soft yolk, but something about this dish changed my mind. Perhaps it’s the complex layering of ingredients, including pickled rosehips (part of the rose that tastes sweet like cranberry), greens, fried garlic, chili and boiled peanuts mixed together that turned the yolk into more of a sauce.

Another surprise is the Pintade Fermatier, which is a little guinea hen. Served in an iron bowl, it’s another sweet and savory textured dish cooked in caramel, and cinnamon with coriander, crispy onions and dandelion, accompanied by jasmine rice.

The Wild Striped Bass with brown butter-soy milk, verbena, pomelo, raw chestnut and lettuce stems is rich, with ingredients that play off each other, but at $21 I thought it too pricey for the portion size.

By this time, we were feeling full, but knowing that Chef Kahn’s fame originated as a pastry chef, we couldn’t pass up dessert. Good thing we didn’t. The desserts are an absolute must part of the meal at Red Medicine.

We shared two and both were completely unique and absolutely scrumptious. The Lemongrass Pots De Crème with sweet potato, orange blossom, red bull and bergomot was a surprise in every bite as far as taste and texture. The Black Currant Lychee with avocado, violets, crème de cassi, genetian and hyssop was a smooth mix of complex sweet flavors.

Dessert was the perfect cap to a very fun, innovative and exciting meal in which almost every bite brought a sense of wonder.

 Red Medicine, 8400 Wilshire Blvd. (at Gale Drive), Beverly Hills. Open until 2 a.m.; separate bar menu available. Average dinner price per person with two cocktails: $60. Valet: $5.