Good Manners, Good Lunch at Penelope's

sits at the corner of Foothill Boulevard and Chevy Chase Drive looking more like  a cottage plucked from Cambria than a cafe, gallery and bookstore. Step across the front porch and once inside, Penelope's welcomes you upholstered arm chairs set in front of a crackling, warming fireplace. 

Wind your way back through the front room, and you will pass a display of preserves and shelves of books available for purchase. On the walls are numerous photographs by local artists also available for sale. Stroll across the main dining room, and you'll find a light-filled area with wood tables and chairs grouped beneath a high-beamed ceiling more reminiscent of an Adirondack camp than a main street in Southern California. 

But the general air of Penelope's seems more in tune with Darien or Rhinebeck.  A definite but comfortable hint of the elite circulates throughout the space. 

On a recent afternoon, the tables were occupied by generations of women conversing about such topics as expensive strollers and anti-aging treatments. A duo of women shared with each other which Christmas gifts they were going to return.  A grandmother was learning who in the seventh grade went skiing in the Canadian Rockies for winter break, as well as which boys were worth talking to between classes.  A mother and daughter rolled their eyes at one another in the corner.

Penelope's, it appears, is the place for ladies to lunch. I half expected my great Aunt Birdie to plow through the front door in her fur coat, tap the floor with her pearl-topped cane and demand to know what type of tea they were going to serve her, with lemon, and extra hot.

At Penelope's you order at a lovely, marble counter and either take a number over to the seating area of your choice or bag it up to go.  There is a large, quiet, patio that once the weather warms and dries, promises to be the spot to nab.  The menu limits itself to salads, sandwiches, soups and some quiche, but the selections offered are numerous and varied.  Sandwiches are served with a choice of mixed greens, vinaigrette slaw, fruit, chips, or a cup of soup.  Salads are quite large and come with a sourdough baguette.  Choose a latte or tea from the extensive coffee list, or a bottled beverage  from the display cooler.  There's even beer and half bottles of wine. 

But be sure to order everything by 2:44 p.m., as Penelope's stops serving at 2:45 p.m. and closes at 3 p.m.  A morning menu is also available with such breakfast options as scones, muffins, oatmeal and granola. 

The triple combo, $13.50, provided half a sandwich, half a salad and a cup of soup.  Unlike so many restaurants, Penelope's doesn't limit your choices.  If it's on the menu, you can have it as your combo.  The soup of the day, a winter soup, was hearty and filling, so full of carrots, celery, beans, tomato, corn, potato and okra that it could have been a meal by itself.  The half sandwich came on a choice of breads, and the multi-grain was so soft it barely held the pile of brie, tomato and greens together.  Take off the top slice and enjoy it open-faced. 

The Belgian endive salad was the star.  On their own, the salads are offered in two sizes.  Get the large version of this one and you need nothing else but a drink for a flavorful, filling lunch that is healthy and delicious. 

The curried turkey was presented on a bed of fresh, mixed greens without that pesky frisee that no one ever really wants.  Bite by bite, the julienne endive was fresh and crisp, with golden raisins adding a sweet surprise while gorgonzola cheese crumbles  and candied walnuts provided richness and texture.  Balancing the flavors, green apple pieces and the citrus-coriander dressing added a zip that kept the salad light and refreshing.  You will finish it all.

Penelope's is the product of  the love and commitment of its owners, La Cañada residents Penelope and Lawrence Moss.  Penelope herself was doing everything from gift-wrapping purchases to clearing plates, chatting quietly with customers as if they were guests in her home. 

Penelope credits her husband with creating the sweeping space and architectural elements. 

"He did all this," she said proudly, motioning toward the dining room and smiling.   

It's clear that it is not just the business that keeps her working each day but love and admiration for what has been created, and a happiness in being able to share with her customers. She asked many times if everything was good, if the meal was enjoyable, and if anything was needed, allowing me to feel tended to, but not imposing upon my enjoyment. 

Penelope's has proper manners.  My great Aunt Birdie would have been extremely pleased with that.

Penelope's Cafe Books & Gallery

1029 Foothill Boulevard

818-790-4386

www.penelopescafe.com