The Grove Grinder: Just About Perfect

The origin of this unique Italian sandwich, with sliced meat, cheese, and peppers served on an eight-inch loaf of bread, is complicated. Most sources agree that it first appeared in the Northeastern United States sometime around 1910. The sandwiches caught on quickly as a tasty, inexpensive, and transportable meal for immigrant workers. Depending on your location, it could be named a sub, hoagie, hero, grinder, bomber, cosmo, spuckie, torpedo or zep.

It was 1963 when DiGangi's Grinder first opened in El Cajon, serving authentic East Coast-style Italian sandwiches. The shop was a big hit, and opened a second location in Lemon Grove in 1972. Unfortunately  nothing lasts forever, and with Mr. DiGangi’s demise the store in the Grove went up for sale. The place went through a few uninspired owners until Sharon and Robert Jones bought it in 2000.

The Joneses were longtime Lemon Grove residents who missed the delicious grinder sandwiches, and wanted to bring them back to their glory days. When they took over they wisely left the core menu of sandwiches intact, while adding their own likable touches. First off, the place is comfortable and cute with furnishings reminiscent of grandma’s dining room. In addition, the menu expanded to offer homemade soups and salads, award-winning chili, and features barbecue the second weekend of every month.

My dining partner and I decided to order two grinders to share. I picked the Italian sausage, served hot with grilled onions, peppers, garlic, and Provolone cheese. My cohort went for a half pastrami on a wheat roll with “The Works”—cheese, oil and vinegar, lettuce, tomato, salt and pepper, olives, onions, and peperoncinis.

For a beverage, I had to try one of the 50 (when all are in stock) choices of bottled root beer. The Grinder offers selections from across the country. After consulting the customer-rating chalkboard on the wall, I decided on a Tower root beer from Boston. Very cool.

My sausage sandwich was insanely good. It tasted fresh and homemade, with a marinara sauce that had just the right amount of sweetness. The perfectly-grilled sausage was lean, with a large amount of crunchy onions and peppers. Amazing—each ingredient had a discernibly good taste.

The pastrami grinder was another big winner. The sandwich even looked good in its basket, held together with a large toothpick and crowned with a black olive slice. Once again fresh ingredients ruled the day, and are the difference in making something great out of the ordinary.

The root beer was excellent, and is a clever marketing idea. The Grinder must carry the largest selection of root beers in East County. They offer the sodas to go in either a four- or six-pack. But I prefer to have mine one at a time, so I can enjoy more of the hot and cold grinders on each visit.

This place is a special find, serving simple food in a serene setting with sincere service. Sadly, Robert Jones passed away six years ago. His wife, son, and other family members have maintained the vision of this unique restaurant.

So Submarina and Jersey Mikes…sorry, but back of the line. Subway and Quiznos…don’t even try and need not apply; you can’t compete. If you have not been to the Grinder, please visit. It will not disappoint.

The is located at 3345 Olive Street, near the corner of Broadway. They take cash and credit cards. The restaurant is open Monday through Thursday from 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; Friday from 10 a.m.–6 p.m.; Saturday from 10 a.m.–5 p.m.; and Sunday from 10 a.m.–4 p.m. They don't have a website, but you can call them at 619-462-5071 to place an order to go.