Mendoza, Argentina: Unbelievable Scenery, Wines and Food at the Foot of the Andes Mountains

I just got back from Mendoza in Argentina, which has 2,000 wineries and it is one of the most interesting places to visit. I was there on assignment to write an article on food and wine and inspect a five-star property for the Signature Travel Network.

Mendoza has the most spectacular scenery, surrounded by the high Andes mountains (20,000 feet). The city planners in the 18th century built 500 miles of channels, which are filled with water from the snow-capped mountains. Wide streets with huge trees planted six feet apart on both sides to form a lovely shady canopy. At the edge of the road is a two-foot deep channel of water, running next to the sidewalk.  

This town is a gorgeous man-made oasis, with five fantastic parks that have lovely flowers and gardens. Fountains everywhere.

It can get to 115 degrees in the summer, so the shade is essential. Few people spoke English.  

Great inexpensive shopping in pedestrian streets, fantastic leather goods, shoes, bags and coats. Next time I am going with an empty suitcase.

I stayed at the Park Hyatt Hotel, in a lovely location, opposite the park. This was built where the century-old Spanish colonial structure Plaza Hotel used to be. They kept the old neoclassic façade. A new modern wing was built behind it, around a large courtyard used for receptions. Fantastic place to hold a party.

The Plaza de Las Arts is where craftsmen from the different regions of the province get together at the weekend to sell their products.  

The hotel’s Bistro M restaurant serves the best beef I have ever had, and its selection of local wines is outstanding. It won an Award of Excellence from the Wine Spectator Magazine for the best wines in the world in 2003 to 2009.

The Grill Q—Parrilla Argentina serves the best Argentinean barbecue and Empanadas. Great spa in the hotel.

Wine-tasting the bodegas

Plan on visiting three-four bodegas (wineries) per day. Work by region, Maipú, Luján de Cuyo or Uco Valley. Bring cash; they do not accept credit cards. Hire a car and driver, more fun to get around. Have lunch and dinner there, since many have wonderful restaurants.

One of my  favorite tours was to LaGarde Winery, founded in 1897. Its pinot noir was voted one of the best in the world. Same Portugese family is running it today.

This region is famous for its Malbec wine. An excellent red wine. I carried four bottles back in my suitcase, I thought it was so fantastic. For a small winery, every wine I tasted was outstanding.

The largest winery I visited was Bodega Norton, founded by an Englishman in 1893.

At the foot of the snow-capped Andes mountains, 3,500 acres of vines, some seven-feet tall with a netting structure built over the rows of grapes. They apparently get baseball-size hail when it rains; they put the netting up for protection.

It was bought in 1989 by an Austrian billionaire, Gernot Swarovski (famous for crystal).

And his son is now running the operation. I have a degree in winemaking and was delighted to have a private tour with the winemaker, who had lived in Napa for a year while in training.  

Mendoza is worth a visit, even if you are not a wine lover. One of the best experiences I have ever had.