Islay, A whisky lover's delight!

On a recent visit home to Scotland, I drove from Edinburgh to the west coast to visit the most southerly island, Islay, two hours by ferry from the mainland. Islay, called the Jewel of the Hebrides and home to 2,000 people is renowned both for its world class malt whisky and as the famed location where George Orwell penned his novel “1984”.

The road to the isles has little traffic, one lane only in many sections, with magnificent scenery punctuated with flocks of sheep and new born lambs all wearing blue plastic coats to protect them from the cold. From a wonderful ferry ride, you can see the mountains on the Isle of Jura, which lies east of Islay and the coast of Ireland, some thirty miles away.

En route, one should stop at Stirling Castle, one of the grandest Scottish castle’s and the royal residence which best represents the Stuart Dynasty (Mary, Queens of Scots) in Scotland. Due to its strategic positioning, in the l5th and l6th centuries, whoever held this castle controlled the Scottish nation. Back then, all roads led to Stirling. Two additional must sees are the Valley of the Ghosts, with its 16 foot tall standing statues and the military museum which gives an overview of the area’s battles, some of the biggest in Highlander history.

The tiny island (30 miles across) has one narrow track road and a remarkably varied topography with seascapes ranging from spectacular cliffs to deserted white sandy beaches where otters play and seals haul out of the clear water to task in the sun. Most notably, is has a reputation with malt whisky lovers since the soft water and peat fired smoking process gives it a distinctive flavor. The island has produced world class whisky for over 500 years and one sip of the malt Laphroaig was enough for me. It is definitely an acquired taste. However, my father said he played better golf after having a wee dram (a little sip) on every green. The tours of the distillers are the best in the whole of Scotland. You can visit nine of them with a wee dram in each.

There are only two small hotels on the island, each one on opposite sides of the land Kimey Country Guest House, an elegant 5 star inn and the Porter Charlotte Hotel, a Victorian house by the seashore. Both were terrific and had excellent prices. Meals are outstanding with beef, lamb and oysters from Islay Farms, game from Island Estates, and scallops, lobsters and crab from the fishing fleet. I had sticky toffee pudding every night and a shandy (half beer and half lemonade)

The island has archaeological remains, including Mesolithic, shell middens, Neolithic and Bronze Age burials, Iron Age hill forts, plus early Christian churches and carvings such as the Kildalton Cross, medieval grave slabs and the ancient seat of Clan Donald, Lord of the Isles. Highlights include a church built in l767 by a Campbell Chief, completely round so that the devil could not hide in a corner.

There is also a tiny woolen mill with only two employees who made all the tweed worn by the cast of the Oscar winning movie, Braveheart.

Bottom line, Islay is worth visiting. You get Scottish heritage, whisky, fantastic bird watching, smashing scenery and even the sea gulls walk with a wobble.

Maureen Jones

Maureen Jones is president of All Horizons Travel at 160 Main Street. Members of her staff are experts in business travel, cruises, and all types of leisure.