Lima, Peru's Crossroads of Past and Present

The South American county of Peru has long captivated with its Amazon rainforests and Nazca lines that eloquently point to the past. Not to be missed is a visit to the capital city of Lima, a lyrical and intriguing
Metropolis seamlessly cut from old and new. Centuries old colonial churches and Inca ruins collide with world class gourmet bistros, exclusive boutiques and sophisticated lounges. While it makes the perfect layover stop for visits to Machu Picchu and colonial Cuzco, Lima offers a dynamic mix that warrants a closer look. We share a few ways to appreciate the city’s past while relishing the glorious present.

Begin your visit with a climb to the top of the 6th century adobe pyramid Huaca Huallamarca. From here you get a remarkable view of the world’s second largest desert city – Lima – which culminates at the edge of the Pacific. The pyramid was initially constructed by the mysterious Lima civilization and served as a ceremonial center more than 1,200 years before the Spanish Conquest. Marvel over the onsite museum’s collection of intact mummies that art historians contend inspired the expressionist masterpiece “The Scream” by Edvard Munch. Nearby the famed Plaza de Armas once considered the heart of old Lima, head underground through the catacombs of the Convento de San Francisco. Learn about the mysteries surround Conquistador Francisco Pizarro’s death and enter the cathedral where he was interred.

Spend another afternoon strolling Lima’s museums further detailing Peruvian history, art and culture. At the Museo de la Nacion your guide shares stories of golden crowned kings and points to eras revealed by Chavin stone carvings from pre Hispanic sculptures to impressionist inspired paintings at the Museo de Arta de Lima. Take the beautiful works of contemporary and modern art at Museo de Arts Contemporaneo and later peruse remarkable folk art in the elaborate traditional crafts found at Qala boutique at oceanfront shopping complex Larcomar.

Though shrouded in history, Lima is simultaneously a city of modern sophistication, class and luxury. Explore the cutting edge galleries, boutiques and oceanfront shopping centers in the neighborhood of Miraflores before settling down for a gastronomic experience. At the popular local dining venue, Central, star chef, Virgilio Martinez infuses his European training with Peruvian classics.

Another culinary luminary, Gaston Acurio, blurs the lines between art, culture and food at Casa Moreyra in the San Isdro district. This former hacienda has an onsite culinary research and development facility for testing new recipes and flavor combinations, a botanic garden, and a casual bar area in addition to the flagship restaurant, Astrid y Gaston. There is a ten day food festival every September when there are tasting booths and street stalls showcasing chefs from all over the country.

In the evening, Lima’s highest concentration of theaters, music and dancing can be found within the delightfully bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. At Las Brisas del Titcaca, clap your hands to folkloric dances, including the delightfully acrobatic danza de las Tijeras or sway to bossa nova at some of the city’s best live music featured at gourmet lounge Cocodrilo Verde.

This is a fun city. Some recommended tours, Remarkable Lima, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, and Peru Culinary Private.

Maureen Jones
All Horizons Travel Inc

Maureen Jones is president of All Horizons Travel at 160 Main Street. Members of her staff are experts in business travel, cruises, and all types of leisure.