The Godmother Caters to Fairytale Feasts

Dolores Rivellino, owner and operator of , described herself as a woman who is “Italian and yells a lot.” But she is also a person who knows good food. Just the descriptions of her turkey sandwiches, with the turkey freshly roasted right there on the spot, or the salmon salad on baby greens with homemade dressing are enough to make one's mouth water.

“This is not fast food, this is made from scratch,” she said. “We have to make it exciting, healthy, interesting and simple.”

Dolores has not always been in the food business. More than 30 years ago, she was working as a hospital administrator in Thousand Oaks and West L.A., and she knew she had to get out of that field.

“It was bad even back then,” she recalled.

So without any knowledge of food, Dolores decided to open a restaurant.

“We started with a catering truck in the parking lot of , but it was too hard for cars to stop when going 40 mph,” she said. “So for a year, we watched traffic go by.”

Then the operation moved to Malibu County Mart, across from , where, as she recalls, they became the center to hang out, especially after Malibu Coffee Shop went out of business. Eventually, the business moved to the , where it has remained for 15 years. Club membership is not required to enjoy a meal there.

“It is really delightful,” she said several times in our conversation. Dolores acknowledged the downside of being so far from the hub of the city, but at the same time was quick to point out “it is one of the prettiest places to eat—and we’re dog friendly.”

The restaurant is a garden café that serves soups, salads, wraps, sandwiches, smoothies, cappuccino and espresso. It is open for lunch Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. (until 4 p.m. on Saturday).

"It is a private club, but the public can have come lunch at our café," said Valerie Titus-Parker, Dolores' daughter and manager of the restaurant. "We are one of the few Malibu independent originals that is left!" 

Dolores said, “We are particularly known for our soups, especially the tomato bisque. It is legendary."

Another specialty is the turkey sandwich with cream cheese and cranberry.

“But there really is something for everyone here,” Dolores said.

The regulars know about this place, and this includes an eclectic mix of interesting people.

“We get quite the characters in here,” Dolores said. “They are not shy and don’t hold back their opinions. It is quite fun.”

It isn’t just the café that keeps her going. She wrote a book in 2008, The Malibu Cookbook: A memoir by The Godmother of Malibu, which features some interesting stories about clients, celebrities and their famous recipes. Also, there is her famous Mediterranean seasoned salt, which can be purchased on the company Web site at thegodmother.com.

There is also the catering, where much of the business is generated.

“We cater weddings, Bar and Bat Mitzvahs, birthdays, anything …” she said.

And with exclusive rights to weddings at Serra Retreat, The Godmother may have cornered the market on beautiful nuptials on the hilltop.

A local resident for the last 41 years, Dolores doesn’t like to leave “the bubble of Malibu.” But she will … if “someone recommends someone who recommends someone.”

“This is a special community, a small town. And I find L.A. isn’t about good food," she said. "We, and Malibu, appreciate good food.”

So whether it is a sandwich in the restaurant, a formal wedding for 200 guests, the start of a biodynamic garden (she really is starting this and will work with other restaurant owners in Malibu to incorporate healthy ingredients) or a need to satisfy a seasoned salt craving, The Godmother truly makes (eating) wishes come true.

Make your Mother’s Day brunch reservations for May 8. There is one seating at 11:30 a.m.

The Godmother of Malibu Cafe and Catering, 23847 Stuart Ranch Rd., 310-456-3254