Izaka-Ya a Welcome Addition to Sushi Scene

Sushi is no stranger to Manhattan Beach. With such staples as Sashi Sushi and Sushi Gallery Miki dotting the downtown streets, locals are not wanting for fresh fish. So what does newcomer Izaka-Ya by Katsu-Ya bring to the table? 

"Our concept is Japanese tapas, which is different than most Los Angeles sushi restaurants," said manager Tiger Nakawake. 

As Manhattan Beach's freshest addition, Izaka-Ya has quickly risen in the ranks of downtown hot spots since opening its doors Feb. 1, and business is cooking. On a recent Sunday evening, I was greeted with a hopping dining room, a loud sprinkling of welcome calls coming from staff at all angles and a long list of reservations. Luckily, there were two seats open at the sushi bar and we were able to duck in without a wait. 

Within 30 seconds of sitting, a server delivered individually wrapped hot, moist towels for our hands and took our drink order. Thanks to the extensive beverage list, including hot and cold as well as seasonal sake (from $10 for a 300-ml bottle to $130 for a 720-ml bottle), Japanese beer, specialty martinis and a short but surprisingly sophisticated wine list encompassing both everyday wines as well as a few big domestic hot shots (think Opus One), we needed a few moments to settle in before deciding. Izaka-Ya also offers a sampling flight of three of its seasonal sakes ($14), which we unfortunately did not notice before following our server's recommendation on the Hakkaisan "Junmai Gingo" cold sake ($29 for a 300-ml bottle).  The Hakkaisan—lightly floral, quite dry and mildly vegetal like a cool cucumber—was lovely and refreshing, however, and our disappointment dissipated like the ocean spray. 

Under the supervision of Chef Katsuya Uechi, founder and executive chef of the Katsu-Ya group, and head chef Shingi, the Manhattan Beach Izaka-Ya is the first South Bay installment of the Southern California company. Amid the traditional, clean Japanese wood-and-paper-lamp décor, the menu expresses  Katsuya's unique and widely popular spin on Japanese dining. "We serve small plates and daily specials as well as sushi," explains Nakawake.

The Kumamoto Oyster Trio ($12) appeared as three tiny jewels on a bed of shaved ice, one with the bright orange flesh of a sea urchin that tasted soft and salty as the sea; one topped with ponzu "jello," providing the bold, bright flavor of citrus and soy with an interesting if perhaps overly yielding texture; and lastly, the pearl of the trio: an oyster in simple lemon sea salt topped with a tiny dollop of Japanese citrus pepper compote that helped the natural flavor of the oyster shine. 

Next we indulged in thick slices of Halibut Carpaccio ($12.50) crowned with diced granny apples turned savory with olive oil, salt and pepper and fill your mouth with a gentle warmth without overpowering the room temp fish. A stroke of dark plum sauce as if from a painter's brush rounds out both the presentation and the flavor of the dish, lending a sweet note to complete the tripod of spice and bright apple acid. 

Despite the bustling atmosphere, our clearly busy server was extremely attentive, and even as a newbie (he was on day three at Izaka-Ya, he told me) he was knowledgeable about the menu and quick to offer guidance. A few suggestions did have to be repeated, as the noise level in the small space can pick up, especially with the restaurant's curious choice of music—a compilation that sounded startlingly similar to a mixed tape I made in 1997, complete with Mariah Carey, Weezer and Aqua's "Barbie Girl," one song I hoped never to hear again.

Equally curious was the Lotus Root Kinpira ($5), fried lotus roots boiled in a soy-based sauce. This small, entirely beige plate was as bland in flavor as it was in appearance. Likewise, the Sautéed Pumpkin with Garlic Butter Soy ($5) also failed to inspire. Although slightly more decadent than the lotus root, the thinly sliced pumpkin was dry and all too similar to reheated Thanksgiving yams. 

Like many a sushi joint, the fish is where Izaka-Ya shines. We asked our sushi chef, a man named Hide who is truly skilled at the artistry of seafood, to pick a few highlights from the impressive sushi menu for our tasting pleasure. From live octopus to Golden Eye Snapper, each bite was a new and borderline transcendental experience that reached its crescendo with the Wild White Salmon from Alaska. Highlighted by a thin spread of wasabi underneath and a caramelized soy glaze on top, the salmon melted like sweet butter, with just enough of that Japanese wasabi heat to keep you on your toes.  Be careful not to get carried away with the sushi sampling though—at $8 for two pieces, a little bit of fish can do a lot of damage to your credit card. 

From the kitchen, the marinated and broiled Miso Cod ($9.50) was the definition of umami as the perfect combination of soft, sweet, flaky flesh and bold, crunchy, lightly charred skin. Served with chilled vegetables cooked al dente and topped with a miso sauce, it was satisfying without feeling heavy. The Okinawa Style Spare Ribs ($8.50) were also impressive, the large portion of tender meat falling off the bone back into its bowl of broth and braised spinach. 

Those familiar with the Katsu-Ya group restaurants will be happy to know that Izaka-Ya also features the three signature dishes available at all the Katsu-Ya locations: Crispy Rice with Spicy Tuna ($9.80), Yellowtail with Jalapeño ($14), and Seared Albacore ($12.50). 

The restaurant is located at 1133 Highland Ave. and is open for lunch Monday-Saturday 12 to 2:30pm, and dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30 to 10pm, Friday and Saturday until 11pm, and Sunday noon to 9pm.  For reservations, call 310-796-1888, or visit the website for more information. 

If you visit Manhattan Beach's newest restaurant, make sure you bring some friends and your appetite, because Izaka-Ya's distinctive and high-quality Japanese tapas-style dining will bring more than enough to your table.