When Kevin Huling says he's not a classically trained chef, he's not being modest. For years he sold shoes and worked as a private investigator before taking over his mother's business in 1992.
That's how he knew it—the family business. The people of Chatsworth know it as Les Sisters, the No. 1-rated soul food/Southern-style restaurant in all of Los Angeles, according to the prestigious Zagat Survey.
At 6 feet 5 inches and always wearing his trademark bandana, Huling served as the executive chef at Les Sisters for a dozen years and continues today as the co-owner and manager.
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Name: Kevin Huling
Age: 54
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Family: Wife, April. His three children--Kevin II, Jessica and Ashley--all work at the restaurant. "It's been a real family experience," he says.
Personal history: Raised in Pacoima, Huling received a bachelor's degree in health sciences from California State University, Northridge, while working at a department store. Later he managed a group of women's shoe stores and acted as a private investigator.
Culinary philosophy: Consistency. "The first time you had [a dish] and the last time you had it are exactly the same," he says. "I run it like a shoe store and not like a restaurant." He also believes in giving back to the community and has been part of numerous organizations, including the Chatsworth Business Improvement District.
Cooking background: Growing up with a father who was a counselor at CSUN and a mother who was a nurse and worked the night shift, he and his brother learned to cook at home, especially after they got tired of frozen dinners. "I don't want to see Banquet pot pies for the rest of my life," he says. His mom left instructions on how to put together basic meals and the kids experimented with seasoning, along with some help from Betty Crocker.
How he ended up at Les Sisters: When his mother, Clara, started the soul food restaurant in 1986 with two local women—no, they weren't sisters; Huling's father just said they argued like ones—he helped out with everything from dishwashing to stocking while continuing in the shoe business. He took over the restaurant--which melds barbecue and Cajun influences from the East, Southwest and New Orleans--upon her 1992 death.
Signature dish: Chicken or shrimp jambalaya, followed by fried chicken.
Secret to great cooking: "You've got to start with music. ... It doesn't matter what genre it is. If you enjoy it, it's going to spill out," he says. "You feel it. ... It transmits when you're cooking. It goes through your fingers and down to the pot."
Inspiration: "I've fought to keep the original things that got us here," he says. That includes jambalaya, gumbo, catfish and fried chicken.
Least favorite ingredients: Sodium and sugar. Given the Huling family's history of high blood pressure, Les Sisters cuts back on the sodium. ("If you need salt, just sprinkle it on there," he says.) And there are plenty of alternative ways to sweeten lemonade or iced tea that the restaurant uses, such as honey and citrus.
Favorite food: Smothered chicken over rice. "I could eat that every day," he says.
Biggest wish: A larger kitchen for the 45-seat restaurant, especially because it would speed up the return of beef ribs to the menu.
