SANTA MONICA, CA — For chef Brian Bornemann, opening an Italian restaurant in Santa Monica doesn't mean importing ingredients from Italy. Quite the opposite.
His latest venture, Bar Fortuna, opened Oct. 21 at 2917 Main St., bringing handmade pasta, Italian-inspired cocktails and an extensive wine selection to Ocean Park, the neighborhood where Bornemann grew up.
Located a short walk from his sustainable seafood restaurant, Crudo e Nudo, the intimate, nearly 40-seat establishment represents another expression of the chef's commitment to California ingredients, drawing on culinary experiences that began thousands of miles away.
Bornemann, who grew up near Bay Street and Lincoln Boulevard, spent time living and cooking in Italy, first in Siena and later outside Milan. His first professional kitchen was a small osteria in Siena, where fresh pasta, locally produced olive oil and wild game were part of everyday cooking.
"It really taught me the respect for location and the kilometer-zero style of sourcing," Bornemann told Patch.
That philosophy, which emphasizes ingredients produced as close as possible to where they're consumed, has remained central to his cooking ever since.
Rather than reproduce familiar Italian dishes using imported ingredients, Bornemann applies the principles he learned abroad to the produce, meats and other ingredients available in California.
"The whole point to us is to use an Italian ethos to do kilometer-zero food rather than replicate Italian dishes," he said.
The restaurant's seasonally changing menu includes handmade pastas such as gemelli with Italian sausage, fennel pollen, grapes and rosemary; paccheri with guanciale, tomato conserva and Broncha cheese; and spaghetti with Venus clams, fennel and chili. Bornemann's approach extends to butchery. Instead of purchasing only individual cuts, the kitchen works with whole pigs or lambs, incorporating different portions into meatballs, sausages, ragù and other preparations throughout the week.
The aim, he explained, is to minimize waste while allowing the ingredients themselves to shape the menu. The beverage program offers a broader geographical perspective. Wine director J.D. Plotnick has assembled a selection emphasizing California and Italian producers, while bar director Noah Castellanos oversees a cocktail menu featuring several variations on the Negroni and other Italian-inspired drinks.
Although Bar Fortuna opened only recently, Bornemann said he had been watching the Main Street property for approximately five years, waiting for the right opportunity. Previously occupied by Mexican restaurant Vamos Vamos, the space already possessed many of the architectural features he wanted, including exposed brickwork, wooden floors and a long bar.
The renovation took just nine weeks, preserving much of the building's original character while introducing a marble countertop, dark shelving and deep green accents. For Bornemann, who operates without outside investors or corporate backing, finding the right location was as much a financial decision as a creative one.
"It's very hard to run a restaurant these days, especially to open one and build one," he said.
The modest size, practical layout and proximity to Crudo e Nudo made the property particularly attractive. His ambition was to create somewhere customers could stop for a glass of wine and a plate of pasta without making an elaborate occasion of it.
Despite his affection for Main Street, Bornemann was candid about the difficulties of operating restaurants in Santa Monica, particularly under previous city leadership. He criticized the approach taken during the tenure of former City Manager David White, describing the city's earlier dealings with businesses as excessively bureaucratic. However, he acknowledged that current City Manager Oliver Chi and his team are making a genuine effort to improve relations with local operators.
"They're being more open and honest. They're listening more. They're taking more feedback," Bornemann said.
Nevertheless, he believes those efforts have yet to produce sufficient improvements on the ground, particularly regarding public safety and municipal services. Bornemann said he pays for private security at both restaurants and arranges sidewalk cleaning himself, expenses he believes should not fall entirely on local business owners. Even so, his commitment to Main Street remains undiminished. He considers the neighborhood more welcoming and better suited to his approach than downtown Santa Monica, which he believes has lost much of its former appeal.
For now, Bornemann has no immediate plans to open another restaurant. His priority is establishing Bar Fortuna alongside Crudo e Nudo, continuing to develop their menus and maintaining a sustainable working life. After years spent cooking elsewhere, the appeal of operating restaurants close to home is also personal. Living near the beach, he hopes eventually to spend more time enjoying the neighborhood rather than expanding his business indefinitely.
Bar Fortuna is open Wednesday and Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Friday through Sunday from noon to 10 p.m., with late-night drinks and food available until midnight. Reservations are available for dinner, while lunch service accommodates walk-ins. Further information is available through the restaurant's official website.
For Bornemann, the ambition is not to build a restaurant empire, but to create something lasting in the neighborhood where his culinary journey began.
Look out for our full review coming tomorrow.
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