Mardi Gras in NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana)

Everybody knows you’ve visited Café du Monde!  It’s that tell-tale residue of powdered sugar on  your clothes, your face and hands. There’s no escaping it.  Who wouldn’t want to drink a café au lait or steaming hot chocolate and gorge themselves on an order of warm beignets brimming with powdered sugar?  It’s one of the many delicious traditions of New Orleans.  NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana) is all about food and music.  It’s been called the Big Easy, Crescent City, N’awlins.  Everything about the city is unique – the history, customs, food, culture, language, you-name-it.   

Strolling through the French Quarter your gaze follows the fluid grace of French doors opening onto balconies festooned with wrought-iron curlicues brimming with ribbons, flowers, masks and beads.  The smells and sounds all mingle together to create a delicate appetizer – Cajun, Creole, French, Spanish, African, Sicilian, Caribbean and German influences can be traced here.  The city can be mysterious too.  Voo Doo,  vampires, the love of cemeteries and the undercurrent of danger is lurking beneath the festive façade and merriment of the celebration.  The proud city rolls with the punches, like the Mississippi.  Katrina proved to strengthen these resilient folk and make them more determined to carry on despite devastating challenges. A new chef can steal the spotlight and eclipse all those who came before him.  Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse, make way for John Besh, the new kid in town with the most magnificent menu to dazzle your palate.  He is the superstar that foodies worship nowadays.  His restaurant August is now THE hot destination.  Of course the old standbys like the iconic Galatoire’s still carry the trophy of historic importance offering the grand traditional dishes in an elegant atmosphere.  Antoine’s. Arnaud’s and Commander’s Palace will always get their lion’s share of diners.  Brigtsen’s is another popular restaurant where you must try the Georgia peach pancakes. 

Exiting Café du Monde you’ll walk along the Mississippi river  and spot the river boat Natchez.  Why not indulge yourself and hop aboard for the cruise on the paddle wheeler?  The scenery along the river is lovely and serene.  The horse and buggy rides are lined up near Saint Louis Cathedral.  A great way to familiarize yourself with the French Quarter and surrounding areas.  There are lots of shops where you can sample pralines and ship some home.  Don’t forget to wear your purple, green and gold beads – it’s the most festive time of year to show your Mardi Gras spirit.  When you walk along the streets of New Orleans you’ll hear the unmistakable sounds of a local zydeco band, a Dixieland combo or cool Jazz coming from Preservation Hall.  Sample a muffeletta sandwich at one of the Italian grocery store/delis near the river.  We understand Dante’s Kitchen is an outstanding place for a muffeletta but have not tried it yet.   The combination of cold cuts, cheese and olive salad is served on Sicilian bread.  The New Orleans cocktail is the Sazerac -  served in an old-fashioned glass with a lemon peel its contents are cognac (or Rye) mixed with Absinthe and Peychaud’s bitters.  Other foods you will typically see on most menus are Oysters Rockefeller and Bananas Foster. If you’re traveling with children you’ll probably want to avoid Bourbon Street where nonstop flashing of body parts is part of the landscape. The Audobon Aquarium and the mall along the river are fun places to go.  The mall has a food court with hot dogs, candy cane and plenty of cheap souvenirs.  Harrah’s has a large casino and is open to receive your deposits.  Some of their slot machines can be generous in returning a portion of your money, not all.  

The parades are the mainstay of Mardi Gras.  Organizations known as “krewes” proudly decorate their floats and some will give costume balls for a pricey donation.  The krewes are composed of social and/or historic membership.  Some krewes date way back to the early days of New Orleans settlement and members pay fees of thousands of dollars a year.  Other krewes charge as little as $20 a month.  The more lavish floats and parties are given by the more affluent groups.  Each year there’s a listing of parades with location – some beginning the first week of February. 

Getting to New Orleans you will fly into Louis Armstrong Airport about 15 minutes from the city.  Hotel space is plentiful but reservations can be difficult during the peak Mardi Gras period.  The gracious Monteleone Hotel is one of the few family-run choices.  Every big hotel chain is represented – most of them are along Canal Street.  The Windsor Court is an old personal favorite.  It’s always advisable to call the hotel directly to check on room availability. Mardi Gras in New Orleans should be on everyone’s bucket list.  If you love food and music, if you seek a pretty destination with a global hodgepodge of people from every corner of the globe, if you never met a stranger, this is a must.  Your beads should be purple (justice), gold (power) and green (hope/faith).  Always repeat the Mardi Gras slogan “Laissez les bons temps rouler” – Let the good times roll.