Bites Nearby: Ray's and Stark Bar at LACMA

If you’re looking for an evening of culture and gastronomy, head over to the Mid-Wilshire district for a delightful evening of fine art and fine dining at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

A night at the museum has never been better with the addition of Ray’s and Stark Bar (named after producer Ray Stark). Opened in March, this restaurant and bar is a welcome asset to the Los Angeles culinary scene. It’s located just behind the Urban Light installation on Wilshire Boulevard in the open courtyard adjacent to the new Resnick Pavilion.

A bar bites menu is offered at the outdoor Stark Bar, which features tapas (small plates), including a variety of flatbreads, oysters, spicy meatballs, charcuterie and fine cheeses. Bar master Michel Dozois knows how to make some excellent seasonal cocktails, such as the Steel Magnolia with fresh strawberries, lemon juice, simple syrup and sparkling wine (or rum). This pretty and pink cocktail is topped with a floating basil leaf and served in a martini glass.

The main restaurant, Ray’s, designed by famed architect Renzo Piano, features floor-to-ceiling glass walls and has both indoor and outdoor seating. The decor is retro-modern with mid-century design elements and is super stylish. From the red and chrome designer chairs to built-in drawers in the tables that hide silverware, every detail contributes to clean lines and artful design—perfect for a museum setting. We chose to sit outside and listen to the jazz band, The Greg Porée Group, that happened to be playing that night. 

It was a real treat to experience such fantastic food in a lively atmosphere while dining al fresco. Chef Kris Morningstar thoughtfully executes fresh, seasonal ingredients into mouthwatering dishes with a Mediterranean flair.

We began our meal with a couple of shared appetizers. I especially liked the wheat berries dish with beet mostarda—an Italian condiment made from sweetened preserved fruit and powdered mustard—asparagus, goat cheese and wild mushrooms, topped with a pistachio aillade (sauce/paste). I’d never had beet mostarda before and was pleasantly surprised by the strong and juicy flavor it added to the dish. The yellow beets were slightly sweet and very tangy, giving it a real kick.

The tangerine salad, made with little gem lettuces, red onion, avocado and pepato cheese—a gourmet Italian sheep's milk cheese studded with peppercorns—had a nice balance of flavors and was refreshing.

My friend almost ordered the striped bass poached in oil with artichokes, blood oranges and artichoke chips, in a pistachio-basil aillade, but instead selected the soft-shell crabs and was very pleased with his decision. The crab was pan roasted with bacon lardon (pork fat), in a green goddess dressing of chevrel, chives and tarragon, and accompanied with a medley of white corn, squash, polenta and onions. He thought the dish was very tasty and liked the slight crunchiness of the shell combined with the delicate crab meat, which had a slight smokey flavor.

As my main dish I ordered the funghi, which consisted of truffled rice agnolotti—a type of ravioli—arugula, hazelnuts and blue foot mushrooms in a porcini (mushroom) sauce. I loved this dish. Every bite was full of delicious flavors, which made it difficult to put my fork down. I especially liked the hazelnuts, which provided a nice contrast to the soft, buttery pasta.

We tried two desserts, the Chocolate and the Citrus. While chocoholics would welcome the chocolate cookie crust with dark chococlate mousse, a black cocoa wafer and kumquat puree, I thought the citrus dessert was phenomenal. An orange marmalade cake is layered with grapefruit curd, crunchy meringue, slices of mandarinquat (like kumquats), caviar lime and tart bergamot (orange) frozen yogurt. I think this is the best dessert I’ve ever had. Everything about it was perfect.

I can’t wait to return to Ray’s, and I may just go straight to dessert.

Ray’s and Stark at LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036, 323- 857-6180

Hours: Ray’s is open for lunch from 12 - 3 p.m. and dinner from 5 - 10 p.m. every day except Wednesday. Stark Bar is open from 11 a.m. - 11 p.m. every day except Wednesday.

Self-parking is available in the Pritzker Parking Garage on 6th Street, just east of Fairfax Avenue.