Salt's Cure Needs Seasoning

Carnivores with a taste for all things salted and cured are in luck: Locally minded charcuterie and cafe Salt's Cure has finally opened its doors after a permit-related delay.

At the helm of this meat-minded adventure are Chris Phelps (formerly of Campanile) and Zak Walters (formerly of Cube), who you will also see slaving away at the compact open kitchen that extends into the loft-like dining space. Their original opening date in July was pushed back, and the two didn't officially welcome their first batch of diners until Aug. 14, but they seem to have everything in order now.

Don't expect heaping portions or a vast menu here, because the focus is on quality and availability over quantity, with many of the menu items coming from local sources.

There is no permanent menu in place; instead, offerings of the day are written on the large wall-hanging chalkboard. On Salt Cure's opening weekend, it offered just five entrees.

The 2x2x2 ($11) is Salt's Cure version of your classic comfort breakfast. The highest compliments to the chefs for the thick-cut bacon and moist breakfast sausages, both made in-house, but the eggs came slightly overcooked. A lightly salted cherry tomato salad and a fresh English muffin with jam round out a satisfying and not over-filling choice.

For the sweet-toothed among us, try the oatmeal griddle cakes ($10) served in a short stack topped with fresh honey cinnamon butter. No need for syrup with these cakes, as the melting butter and generous use of cinnamon give the right dash of spicy sweetness. The dish is slightly overpriced, especially next to the 2x2x2 and its comparatively more expensive ingredients.

Those in search of something reminiscent of Southern cooking will find comfort in the sausage gravy biscuit ($12). Spilling out between the halves of a fresh buttermilk biscuit you'll find a savory mix of fresh gristle-free sage sausage and a house-made cream gravy.  The most filling of the breakfasts sampled, a side of fruit would have been nice to balance out the heaviness of the dish.

Orange and grapefruit juices are squeezed by hand and coffee comes in a French press to share for $6. You might just find your new favorite beer or wine in Salt Cure's eclectic beverage menu, which looks to local purveyors instead of the usual store-bought brands.

A lunch menu of sandwiches, soups and salads is available on weekdays and a dinner menu is expected to follow in the coming weeks.

Eventually, the sparse-looking deli case at the front of the restaurant will house lamb chops, prime rib, potted duck and other meat selections that can be purchased and taken home.

Salt's Cure is a brand new restaurant run by a pair of young restaurateurs, so naturally there are kinks to be ironed out and a smoother workflow to establish. For example, the eating area became crowded with people waiting for tables because the room can hold only 23 diners. Hiring a hostess who could help steer waiting guests outside would be a good idea. Also, it was quite hot in the dining area, perhaps because of the location of the kitchen. But these minor bleeps are not deal breakers, and Salt's Cure can be a success if Phelps and Walters heed the constructive criticism and make a few minor tweaks.