Review: India Kitchen

I cannot say that I have been dying to go to India Kitchen. But that's only because I never noticed it before. Tucked away in a small strip of shops just north of Tile America on Federal Road, India Kitchen has been serving both take-out and eat-in customers for more than 10 years, according to our waiter.

On a night last week, my friend and I were ready for some spicy Indian fare. When we arrived, there were only two tables occupied in the small but welcoming dining room, which is not always a good sign in the restaurant business. But during the evening, several people came in to pick up take-out orders.

We started with the Vegetable Platter ($7.95). Most appetizers here are fried, and this was no exception. Included were battered and fried cheese wedges, fresh onion fritters, vegetable fritters and a samosa. The platter was plenty for two to share, but the batter proved too heavy for me. I was hoping our entrées would be tastier.

And they were. Along with a perfectly cooked Basmati Saffron Rice, the waiter brought a sizzling-hot pan of the Tandoori Mixed Grill ($16.95). The mix included large pieces of chicken breast, seasoned ground lamb and sliced lamb cooked in a tandoor, which is a traditional clay oven that lends a smoky flavor to the meat. The lamb was particularly tender and flavorful.

The second entrée was Chana Masala ($11.95), chickpeas cooked in a thick spicy sauce. This vegetarian dish was delicious over the basmati rice. Be careful what heat level you request; we ordered our Chana Masala medium spicy. Another diner remembered to order her meal medium as well, because on the previous visit she had requested spicy, and "it nearly killed" her.

To accompany our meal, we had a trio of sauces, including cilantro, tamarind and onion chutney. I particularly enjoyed the cilantro with the spicy chickpeas and the tamarind and onions with the meats.

Visiting a restaurant for the first time, there is inevitably something that stands out or makes a memorable impression, whether it is good or bad. And here there were two things. First, the naan was incredible. My friend ordered the Onion Kulcha ($4.25). The lovely, flat bread was stuffed with a thin layer of sweet onions and green coriander and arrived at the table piping hot. Delicious on its own, we also folded it around some of the chickpea mixture.

Unfortunately, at the end of our evening, I discovered the second standout. The bathroom. Clearly, the staff had not cleaned the ladies' room in quite a while.

India Kitchen has a vast menu, with many vegetarian choices, as well as chicken, lamb and seafood specials. There is a small children's menu. Prices are moderate, with entrées ranging from $11.95 to $19.95. We were not offered coffee or dessert, but the menu lists a mango ice cream and homemade rice pudding that both sounded good. Judging from the several repeat customers and the quality of our meal, I would eat here again. But I might get take-out next time.