Review: Italianos

Italianos is a pleasant surprise. In this area saturated with Italian eateries, this quaint restaurant makes its mark with fresh ingredients and inventive dishes scattered among the more traditional offerings.

This building has been home to many eating establishments, with Italianos opening in late 2007. Located just north of Brookfield's Four Corners, the small restaurant is easy to miss on this busy stretch of road. Look for the red awnings across from the bowling alley.

My husband and I were seated right away on a recent Wednesday evening. It was a warm spring night that had other couples enjoying al fresco dining on the wooden deck. We chose to eat inside, where the immaculate and neatly decorated dining room was about one-third full.

One glance at the appetizer menu and my husband knew the Broccoli Rabe ($6.49) was for him. The bright green vegetable was lightly sauteed with onions and red peppers, then heaped onto a crispy Parmesan toast. The saltiness of the toast enhanced the spring flavor of the broccoli rabe and the sweetness of the caramelized purple onions. The four pieces were plenty to split between us.

For our entrées, we decided on Seafood Fra Diavlo ($19.99) and Baked Seafood Rigatoni ($19.50). Portions here are plenty for hungry diners. My husband's clams and mussels came in their shells and were cooked just right, with the clams being especially tasty. The shrimp and crab added nice flavor to the dish as well.

My seafood pasta was obviously freshly  made, as I had to wait to eat it while the steam rose off the hot creamy cheese sauce. The tail-on shrimp were plentiful and delicious, with the shredded crabmeat folded in throughout the lobster sauce. This dish was very rich and had melted mozzarella cheese, which I probably could have done without because it overpowered the delicate flavor of the sauce.

Because it was getting late, we took a slice of carrot cake to go, which my husband ate at home. He enjoyed it, noting that he tasted some coconut in the cake.

Service here is pleasant and personal. Meals are prepared to order and served promptly. The menu offers gourmet pizzas, such as Clams Casino and Pesto pizzas ($14,  medium), as well as panini sandwiches and burgers ($5.75-$6.99). Entrées include classic Italian dishes, such as Eggplant Rollatini ($12.99) and Veal Parmigiana ($17.50), as well as lighter fare, including Pan-Seared Salmon ($17.99) and a variety of salads.

Children are welcome, and there is a kids' menu with meatballs, chicken tenders and pasta. Italianos offers a take-out menu and delivery service. The restaurant also accepts reservations, so call ahead, especially on weekends.