Review: Rocco's

Rocco's modest exterior gives little clue that a large, well-decorated dining room awaits inside. Located just south of Brookfield's Four Corners, Rocco's has been serving traditional Italian fare, as well as pizza, since 1991. With no shortage of Italian restaurants in the area, Rocco's spacious interior and friendly service stand out as reasons to return.

We visited on a late weekday night, so the restaurant was mostly empty. Yet, it still had a welcoming feel, with burnt orange walls, dark velvet draperies and wooden tables and chairs.

Service was prompt and friendly, if not always accurate. I deduced that our waitress had not tried much of the menu, describing the chicken dish I ordered as served with asparagus when she really meant spinach.

When we were informed that the kitchen was out of the Stuffed Mushrooms ($7.99) we requested, our waitress recommended the special Calamari Thai Thai ($7.99), fried calamari topped with a pineapple chutney-like sauce. The sauce would have been better served as a dipping sauce to avoid making the crispy rings soggy.

As our entrées were brought to the table, I knew from the aroma that we were in for a treat. My Chicken alla Rocco ($17.99) was served bubbling hot, with tender breasts of sautéed chicken covered in spinach, sautéed onions and melted cheese. The rich wine sauce was mellowed by the earthy taste of mushrooms with just enough seasonings. I saved the second chicken breast and the side of pasta with marinara sauce for lunch the next day.

My husband ordered the Seafood Cioppino ($20.99), linguine served with lobster, scallops, clams, mussels and shrimp with onions and peppers in a pink sherry sauce. He was in love after the first bite, as was I when I tasted a piece of the lobster soaked with the delicately salty pink sauce. There were no leftovers for this dish.

The menu ranges from classic Italian, such as Gnocchi Bolognese ($12.99) and Baked Stuffed Shells ($12.99) to more elaborate dishes such as what we ordered. Pizza is also a popular choice here, with pies ranging from $8.99 for a small cheese to $19.99 for a large Shrimp Scampi Pizza. Rocco's offers delivery service.

With all the other Italian choices in the area, we felt that Rocco's had delicious entrées, but, although the seafood and veal prices seemed reasonable, the pasta and chicken dishes are expensive. Unless we were ordering pizza, we would not bring our family of six here for dinner. For the budget-minded customers, many of the same items are offered at lunch for a cheaper price (and probably a smaller portion).