Bites Nearby: Oaxaca Kitchen

You may have trouble pronouncing this New Haven restaurant's name on the first try, but give it a chance next time you are heading into the big city. It's name is derived from a state in Southwestern Mexico.

Restaurant name: Oaxaca Kitchen Bar & Restaurant         

Address: 228 College St., New Haven

Phone number: 203-859-5774; www.thali.com

Cuisine: Foodies know chef Prasad Chirnomula as the personable owner of the acclaimed Thali and Thali Too restaurants in New Haven as well as outposts in Fairfield County. Oaxaca Kitchen is Chirnomula’s first foray into the traditional cooking of this southwestern Mexican state, based on his extensive travels – and tastings – throughout the region.

Price range: $6-$24

Take out:  Yes.

Kid-friendly:  The décor, while striking, is casual and comfortable. While the menu features tacos, both the soft and hard-shell kinds, the dishes may be a bit too sophisticated for most kids. Taco and quesadillas are a good fallback for fussy eaters.

Why you should go right now: The food is, quite simply, fantastic – fresh, colorful, based in tradition with an inventive edge and perfectly executed. Three Mexican women oversee the kitchen, while Chirnomula has been by their sides since the restaurant opened at the beginning of April. In developing the dishes, Chirnomula has drawn on his expertise in the blending of spices, which is key to Indian cooking, to create Mexican appetizers and entrées that balance flavors and seasonings. The guacamole, prepared tableside with just the right amount of heat and a crown of fresh chopped onion and tomato, is the only way to begin the meal. Also a must is the gazpacho, an orange red puree of tomatoes and vegetables garnished with an icy red pepper sorbet and toasted pepitas. At a recent lunch, we had a hard time choosing our favorite entrée: the delicate flavors of a perfectly cooked Chilean sea bass in a yellow mole sauce with caramelized Spanish onions and poblano chiles or the burger – and what a burger it was. The fat patty was a blend of 80 percent buffalo meat and 20 percent chorizo topped with both queso fresco and queso Oaxaca. The chile fries were the right vehicle for spooning up a sprightly ketchup laced with fresh papaya. Oaxaca also has an extensive bar menu of tequilas, wines, beer and specialty cocktails.