Giovanni's, A Serious Steakhouse

Change is good. But in the case of Giovanni's, a family owned and operated steakhouse that's been an area staple for over 25 years, it was nice to see that some things stay the same.

The Giovanni's dynasty began in Stamford on Long Ridge Road, as a meat market turned steakhouse back in the early 1980's. The Darien location opened soon thereafter with the same steakhouse concept, but with added event space called The Water's Edge. Known for producing spectacular weddings and gala events, the popularity of Water's Edge has caused , to be overlooked by some. Not by me.

Giovanni's classic steakhouse favorites are just as I remember them, when my family would regularly venture to the restaurant for a Sunday dinner.

The front entrance leads you into a large foyer and bar area, currently decked out with gorgeous holiday arrangements. Banquet rooms are just beyond the foyer and downstairs. The small dining room just to the left of the entrance remains understated.

We walk past the racks of wine and the lobster tank to our table covered with white linen. The dark wood walls and furnishings are fabulously steakhouse'esque—as are the waiters donned in black and white uniforms—and the Martinis and Manhattans that make their way across the dining room to a large party of birthday well-wishers are just as I remember.

No sooner do we order our drinks, than a fresh basket of garlic bread lands on our table.

"Ahhh," Scotty says as he lifts his nose up to take in the sweet garlic and butter aroma, "This is the good stuff."

The soft Italian bread is split in half and toasted just enough to crisp up the middle layers while leaving the dough soft inside. In the past, the bread was oily; the paper napkin wrapper soaked with grease. Not anymore. We were off to a great start.

Perusing the menu, we had our hearts set on the Porterhouse Steak, Large Shrimp Cocktail, Clams Casino. With one wild card entrée to pick, our waiter recommended the veal shank Osso Bucco. Sold!

The menu offers three different prix fix options in addition to a la carte. At $32.99, $42.99, and $52.99, thes options include an appetizer, salad, entrée and dessert. With more "premium" items falling under the various price points, it's a good choice for a value meal.

After eating far too much garlic bread, the Large Shrimp Cocktail (four) arrives along with the Clams Casino (six). The shrimp are wonderfully large and meat; the cocktail sauce has a nice sharpness to it. Cherry stone clams are broiled with peppers, onions, bacon, and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs. I taste some sort of cheese in there, but the waiter tells us that the chef insists that there's not. No matter. They are tasty; the clams are plump, and the juices are mopped up with the last piece of garlic bread.

Salads, served with every entrée selection, come chilled in a shallow bowl with a hint of vinaigrette and a generous portion of Gorgonzola cheese. The salad is exactly how I remember it. The mixed lettuce leaves are soft (I prefer crunchy salad greens); there's a thick slice of cucumber and a large chunk of tomato, plus some thinly sliced red onion. Just enough dressing coats the vegetables, while the cheese does the rest. It's an uncomplicated salad that works.

We watch folks peak their heads into the dining room as we are eating. There are a few parties taking place that night. The atmosphere is fun, light and friendly. Stuffy, it is not. Dining room customers are called by name, and we notice that they are mostly families with older (teenage) kids. Service is great; our water is constantly filled,  and we are looked upon throughout the meal. I like that.

The carnivore in me is thrilled when the Porterhouse Steak (Certified Angus Beef) arrives with a large baked potato. I immediately add two pats of butter. The butter in foil didn't even bother me, as I guess it was as I remember it to be. I think if another restaurant served butter like that, I'd be turned off. Not here.

Ordered "medium," the steak is well done on the filet side and practically medium rare on the strip steak side of the bone. Odd, but it is what it is, and the steak is still tasty. I (of course) opt to lift the bone to my mouth and gnaw at all the flavorful bits around the edges. I appreciate the baked potato. Steak and potato are just one of the simple pleasures in life. Oh, and the fried onions. Ya gotta have those too.

"Switch!" I say to my boyfriend, as plates and hands cross the table.

Osso Bucco arrives piled high atop creamy risotto. I instantly reach for the bone marrow fork and plunge it into the hollow bone for the flavorful marrow.

"You didn't want that, did you?" I ask Scotty—sarcastically.

I dig into the large portion of veal shank that is falling off the bone nicely. A mirepoix of onions, carrots, celery and garlic can be seen within the veal stock reduction; the flavor is dark and rich and makes for a nice accompaniment to the plain risotto beneath.

There's a large selection of seafood on the menu, but I have a strong opinion about ordering steak in a steakhouse, and fish in a seafood restaurant. (The stuffed lobster and the shrimp scampi could have possibly swayed me, if I had another glass of wine).

The wine list is quite extensive and is comprised of global selections at every price point.

Tiramisu and a real Italian ricotta cheesecake ended my trip down memory lane. There are chocolaty, gooey, cold, and fancy desserts here, but when at Giovanni's, go for the real thing. The Tiramisu is not too sweet and allows for the milkiness of the mascarpone mixture to blend well with the espresso soaked cake. A little denser than I recall, it proved quite filling.

I particularly enjoyed the Italian Cheesecake, left in its purist form: half creamy, half coarse, with a hint of orange. Again, not too sweet, the way it should be in my (Italian) book.

These days, while Giovanni Gabriele is still greeting customers on a daily basis, his niece JoAnn and son-in-law Sal Latorraca run the restaurant and catering business. They also continue to carry on the many traditions that Giovanni began so many years ago.

On Dec. 1, I was lucky enough to experience one such tradition: a holiday luncheon for the senior and assisted living facilities throughout Fairfield County. Waiters donated their time, and the entire day is compliments of Giovanni and his family.

"Our first luncheon had only 18 people," recalls Giovanni, "Today there are over 300 seniors, along with their nurses and caretakers that come to celebrate the holidays with us."

He beams as he looks around the banquette room.

Perhaps it's the holiday spirit that is moving me, but I leave Giovannni's feeling good. It's as I remember it, and while it may not be like all those "other" fancy steak places, it is true to its concept, loyal to its customers, and what a family run restaurant should be all about.