It's nice to know that some things remain the same. That's why I love Rory's, that little pub on the corner of the Post Road and Old Kings Highway that has been serving up their brand of comfort food for over 30 years.
The restaurant was briefly operating as Thatchers, returning to its original incarnation a little over 10 years ago; and last year, Bryan Malcarney, chef and owner of the popular Blue Lemon Restaurant in Westport bought the neighborhood watering hole. The good news: it hasn't changed.
I was instantly taken back to my college years the moment I stepped through the door, which places you in the bar with just a few steps. I used to come here every Friday for the "gals' three-hour lunch" with friends.
"We still have the same great staff and chef with me getting into the kitchen and adding a few new dishes and house made desserts, but it's still the same Rory's from way back," said Malcarney.
Appetizers
I immediately ordered the New England Clam Chowder and a cup of Rory's Famous Lobster Bisque. I had to have both. I remembered their chowder being full of sweet tender clams, bits of potato, onion, a touch of dill and not too thick or "ruey;" and so it was—just as I remembered. As for the bisque, it's only available on Tuesdays and Fridays, and it was a Tuesday. I had to have it. Its intense lobster reduction, lobster pieces, and chunks of a mirapoir that I believe contains sweet potatoes, makes this bowl of thick and creamy goodness a meal in itself. No need for crackers.
Other appetizers worth ordering include Fried Zucchini, Irish Smoked Salmon and Rory's tangy take on buffalo wings: Chicken Wings. The New England Crab Cake with mustard dressing is extremely crunchy on the outside and quite mustard-y, but tasty nonetheless.
Sandwiches
Rory's still prepares some of the best and heartiest sandwiches in town. I opted for the Peremech. Described as an oriental hamburger, this thin, slightly spiced meat patty is wrapped in dough (almost like a dumpling) and served with hot bouillon, sour cream, soy sauce and sautéed onions. Only two small patties come on the plate, but the mound of crunchy, salty fries make up for it. Don't order this on a first date; it's very messy, and you have to use your fingers.
The Hot Pastrami Reuben served over rye with sauerkraut, Russian dressing, and melted Swiss cheese is true winner; as is the "French Connection" sandwich of rare, thinly sliced roast beef on a toasted French roll with au jus, sautéed onions and melted Swiss cheese.
Salads
Platters of hearty salads are another staple at Rory's. A special of the night was a Classic Caesar with Seared Cajun Scallops. It was done just right: tender with just the right amount of kick to contrast the cool crunchy lettuce and creamy roasted garlic dressing.
But my favorite is still the Taco Salad, billed as a "hold over from Thatchers." Packed with seasoned beef and layers of pico de gallo, lettuce, tomatoes, scallions, and lots of cheese, this is not a starter salad by any means.
Entrées
House specialties include good ol' Americana, stick-to-your-ribs favorites. Our table shared the Southwest Mixed Grill: grilled bone-in chicken breast with mushroom demi glace, andouille sausage, jumbo shrimp, garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed broccoli. It was good but not great. I enjoyed the spicy sausage and shrimp, but I was happy to have the mushroom demi glace, as the chicken was a bit dry and lackluster. And who can resist mashed potatoes? Not me.
Desserts
If you still have room, consider a decadent house-made dessert. My top picks: the Brownie Sundae (for the kid in all of us), Apple Crisp (great with coffee), and my all time favorite: Italian-Style Cheesecake, make with ricotta and a hint of orange zest, and left slightly grainy for a more rustic texture.
Price points are reasonable at Rory's. Expect to pay about $10 to $15 for appetizers and salads, and just over $20 for your average entrée. The prices, like the dishes themselves, haven't changed much over the years, yet another reflection of the restaurant's unpretentious attitude and its loyalty to a likewise faithful customer base.
It's a place where cold beer flows, good food is a given, and the conversation and laughter of locals fills the air. It's Rory's, that little pub on the corner.
