Taipan Turns into Thali

I must have missed the Extreme Makeover crew, because that's what it must have taken to transform Taipan into Thali in record time. It seemed like one week, the pan-Asian spot --  maybe best known for the transparent floor with fish swimming underneath -- was serving up sushi. A few weeks later, it had been transformed into the exotic Indian restaurant which opened Friday, March 26.

The exterior might be the same, but the interior is unrecognizable. The wood floors dance with moving flashes of light, as if a disco ball is hiding within the ceiling.  Defining one side of the dimly-lit dining area is a curtain of white fringe, hanging in a row and begging to be touched. On the opposite the fringe is a wall of small mirrors in an array of silver frames. It's giddy, funky, and unexpected. 

In a town that's heavy on Italian restaurants and sorely lacking in more adventurous cuisines, Thali's arrival has been much anticipated. This is the fifth in a series of restaurants from chef Prasad Chirnomula, including those in New Canaan, Ridgefield, and New Haven.

For diners who've never tasted chef Chirnomula's work, the food can be as unexpected as the decor. It's wonderful – just not always what you might think of when you picture Indian food. Thali's menu is big on small-plate appetizers – in the spirit of Spanish tapas. The extensive list of them takes up half the menu and covers everything from Lamb Croquettes ($8) to Spice-Crusted Sole (steam-grilled in banana leaves) ($14) to an Open Nan-Burger ($12). Borrowing from other cuisines, they serve an Indian Style Shrimp Tempura ($9) and Mussels & Portugese Chorizo ($10).

The Sesame-Crusted Chicken Skewers ($10) are small but delectable. The four of them are coated first in a spice rub, then in a blend of both black and white sesame seeds. They're tender, with a little kick.  On the furthest end of the heat spectrum are the ultra-mild Tibetan Style Steamed Chicken Dumplings ($7) which are little more than ground meat wrapped in dough. The smoky tomato chutney that accompanies it, though, adds a rich depth to the dish.

Since the small plates seemed more adventurous and interesting than the traditional fare, I was tempted to just munch my way through several of them, ignoring the rest of the menu altogether. But that wouldn't be fair to the lovely curries, which definitely deserved their moment in the sun. Thali serves six sauces – masala, vindaloo, saag, korma, gassi and kabab -- in combination with chicken, shrimp, fish, vegetables, or lamb.

We stuck our toes in the water with Chicken Masala ($15), a tomato-based curry, easy on the spice. It was mouth-wateringly delicious, and left us looking for other ways to sop up the sauce that remained long after we inhaled the five small pieces of chicken breast. A straw, maybe? The chicken couldn't have added up to more than a breast and a half, max, which seemed a bit on the stingy side for the price. The Shrimp Korma ($17) was a little light on the protein, as well, with maybe a dozen or so shrimp on the plate. The sauce was a delightful yogurt-based curry the color of mustard.

Maybe I wouldn't have noticed the inequitable meat-to-curry ratio if we'd been given our nan. Soft, warm, incomparable nan might just be Indian cuisine's reason for being. It's definitely my motivation for stepping foot in an Indian restaurant. On one visit to Thali, we took our dinner to go. But when I opened our bag at home, I realized to my extreme sadness, that the nan was M.I.A.! The restaurant was quite apologetic, and initially offered to deliver some. But then another employee called back and told me that they wouldn't be doing that, but would "take care of it the next time," whatever that might mean. Disappointed would be an understatement.

Aside from that slight misstep, the service at Thali is quick and friendly. They're happy to explain dishes without attitude – unlike another local Indian spot I won't name.  Still in their first week of operation, they're going through the usual bumpy phase, and waiters might be more attentive because as of yet, the dining room is still uncrowded.

Surely, that won't last long.

When you go -- and you must --  just make sure they remember your nan.

_______________

Thali

376 Post Road East

203/557-4848

www.thali.com

Hours:

Lunch:

12 pm – 2:30 pm every day

(brunch on Sunday)

Dinner:

Mon. - Thurs.: 5 pm – 10 pm

Fri. - Sat.: 5 pm – 11 pm

Sun.: 4 pm – 9 pm

Major credit cards accepted.

Take-out available. No delivery.