Business Motors Along for Malena's Mexican Food Truck

to the delight of many. But there is another Mexican eatery — not a taco bus but a truck — down the street and around the corner that has been quietly serving patrons for years.

Malena’s Mexican sits in a residential area on the corner of East 136^th Avenue and 20^th Street, a stone’s throw from Krystal burger on Fletcher Avenue. The operation is simple: a food truck that resembles a camper and a canopy to cover a pair of folding tables where patrons nosh on their orders. The parking area is unpaved.

Brian Hernandez, who was serving customers last Friday, says the location is “pretty hidden” but the experience is special. 

“It’s pretty much the most authentic (Mexican food) you can get,” said Heranandez, whose grandparents own the business. 

The truck is open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays for lunch and dinner. Malena's has no website. Even the exact spelling of its name is a bit of a mystery. On their business card, it's titled "Malena's" but a menu board calls it "Mallena's."

Regardless, the bill of fare features tacos, tamales, burritos, tortas and not only standard meats such as chicken and beef but also lengua (tongue) and cabeza (head). (Actually, Heranandez said the term cabeza is misleading because the meat is from the cheek.)  Drinks includes American sodas but also Mexican sodas and horchata, a sweet rice drink.

What are the most popular items at Malena’s?

“To the Hispanics, the tacos and tortas,” Hernandez said. “To the others, the tacos and tamales.”

Hernandez said the seed for Malena’s was planted years ago when his grandparents, Mariaelena and Daniel, came to America from Mexico — the town of Aguas Calientes, to be exact — for a better life.

“They were selling from a car … at construction sites,” he said of the business. “They were making good money.”

They then got a smaller truck, Hernandez said, and even later the current truck 10 years ago. They opened a brick and mortar shop on Fletcher Avenue but later closed during the downturn in the economy.

Hernandez said while it still common to see Central and South americans in the University area west of Bruce B. Downs Boulevard, the population is shrinking. Malena's is a little taste of home to many patrons.

“They usually compliment (my mom) on being authentic,” Hernandez said of Malena’s customers.

Ronny Izaguirre is a regular patron.

“They make it delicious, and it’s typical Hispanic,” Izaguirre said in Spanish after ordering mixed quesadillas.

Is Malena’s similar to the cuisine of Honduras, where he is from?

“Un poco similar,” he said, indicating that it’s a little similar.

Hernandez said the secret to the success of Malena’s — which is his grandmother’s nickname — is the way the food is prepared.

“My grandmother said you always shave to cook with love,” he said. 

Have you been to Malena’s? What do you recommend?