A Matter of Taste: Cheesesteak

We are not in Philadelphia. In spite of that, cheesesteaks abound on Pinellas beaches. Unfortunately, it’s hard to figure out which ones are worth the effort. Before you embark on the cheesesteak tour of Pinellas beaches – an endeavor I highly recommend – consider these facts about the mighty steak sandwich:

In a true cheesesteak, the cook frizzles, not fries, the meat. Frizzling meat means the cook fries it until it curls into those distinctive curlicues so distinctively cheesesteak-y. And, yes, cheesesteak is one word, not two.

Wherever you go, don’t assume you’re getting a traditional cheesesteak. Some come with peppers and onions whether or not you ask for them and others don’t. Also ask about the roll – some places grill or toast it while others serve it uncooked.

Traditional cheesesteak cheeses include provolone, American, and, yes, Cheez Whiz (since its invention in 1952), but the first cheesesteaks, prepared in 1930s Philadelphia, didn’t come with cheese. In 1930, a cheesesteak came with onions only on a loaf of bread. Of course, then it was a steak sandwich. It became a cheesesteak when someone the hot dog stand that sold these sandwiches – now Pat’s King of Steaks – added provolone.

You won’t find cheesesteak stands along the beach, and we certainly don’t have the sort of rivalries you’ll find between purveyors of frizzled meat in the Philly area,  but you will find cheesesteaks almost everywhere. Here’s where to find the one you want:

If you want a cheesesteak...

*On the cheap
...Go to Frenchy’s Saltwater on Tuesdays, when they will sell you a cheesesteak for $3.95. That leaves plenty of room for conch fritters, if you don’t mind the mix. If you’re new to Clearwater beach, make sure you have the right Frenchy’s – there are several.

*While boating along the ICW
...Dock at The Pub in Indian Shores and try out their cheesesteak. You can eat at the bar or on the water and they welcome dogs if you have one on your boat.

*With hoagie rolls made on-site
...Head to TJ’s on Indian Rocks Beach. The owner bakes the bread on-site. As a friend pointed out, this is the place to get a cheesesteak if you don’t like scraping up the roof of your mouth on crusty bread. Sounds weird, but we’ve all been there.

*Made with chicken
...Order one at Foxy’s on Treasure Island. Purists will insist that this isn’t a cheesesteak; nonetheless, if you insist, you can get one here. Most locals can point you to Foxy’s but the restaurant has no web site; find them at 160 107th Avenue.

*And a couple of pints of beer and Irish music
...Look no further than Mickey Quinn’s Irish Pub on Indian Rocks Beach. Amidst the shepherd’s pies and fish and chips you’ll find a cheesesteak on the menu. The pub boasts “traditional Irish” music sessions and also fancies itself a bit of a sports bar.