An Authentic Taste Of Israel at Taboun Grill

It's well known that Skokie is home to one of the largest Jewish populations in the Midwest. That's more than evident as one drives from east to west on any of the major boulevards. Block after block is home to delis, bagel shops and even combination Middle Eastern-pizza joints.

Amidst all this is the Taboun Grill. Formerly located in Chicago's Rogers Park neighborhood, the restaurant is alive and well in Skokie. Unique for it's Israeli spin on Mediterranean dishes, the restaurant is about as kosher as it gets. The waitresses even dress in the traditional, conservative fashion as well as talk to one another and the kitchen staff in Hebrew.

The meal at 8808 Gross Point Rd. opens with pickles and pickled beets. Placed on every table, this small dish brings the taste buds to life. The kosher pickles are familiar, but the beets are steeped in garlic. They are a perfect match of flavors to prepare your taste buds for the meal ahead.

Start with a salad combination plate for a little taste of everything. At $11, the combination is a great bargain, and the portion is so large that two people will have trouble eating it all. That's fine, as you'll want as much as you can handle of the four great tastes on the plate: moroccan eggplant, pickled onions, purple cabbage and baba ghannouj. Lastly, the dense, creamy hummus supports a sea of olive oil and a dusting of paprika.

The taste is slightly twisted in the most interesting way, with a slight hint of peanut. Don't be shy about asking for extra pita. The waitresses are only too happy to bring you more -- warm and freshly made. The bread is so thick that filling up on the stuff is a tempting possibility.

The entrees are healthy, hearty and - some might say - a bit pricey. One doesn't usually expect to see entree prices in the high $20 range in a casual Middle Eastern restaurant, but keep in mind that the food is certified kosher. Luckily, the large portions justify the prices, as in the case of the ribe-eye steak, a 16-ounce cut of meat prepared to order. Throw in a choice of two sides, such as rice of the day or garlic mashed potatoes, to cap the bill at $28.

You can go a little more traditional (and a little cheaper) with the kefta kabob.  This mixture of ground beef and spices also comes with two sides and is a bit more manageable at $17.

The real value is in the pita sandwiches. Ranging from $6 - $10, they are served on -- and in -- the restaurant's thick and delicious pita, alongside a healthy dollop of hummus and Jerusalem salad. The falafel sandwich is an example of expert preparation. The flavorful balls of fried chickpeas are perfectly crisp on the outside and tenderly soft within. The chicken shwarma is spiced with a bit of curry and cardamom. The flavors are so perfectly balanced, and you won't have a problem identifying the nutmeg or cinnamon.

Whether you're an Israeli expat who misses the comfort foods of home or simply a lover of Middle Eastern food done well and done large, Taboun Grill is a destination dining and a perfect fit for Skokie.