FOOD REVIEW: The Wine Merchant

There are many among us who spend their time arguing things like politics, religion, questions of the human condition, etc. I prefer to focus on subjects I find far more important, like the proper frying technique of eggplant parmesan, the pros and cons of wrapping foods in bacon (there are no cons) and the notion of exactly what makes a perfect sandwich.

 The latter was precisely the focus of a debate I found myself in earlier this week, and to my surprise, the answer was served to me in delicious fashion at an unlikely venue. It was the quaint yet classy little wine shop in the heart of Greenspring Station known as the The Wine Merchant.

I’ve been hearing whispers of delicious lunch fare at The Wine Merchant from friends and family for some time, yet I’ve always been hesitant to try it.  Something about the notion of fine food from a liquor store deli seemed somewhat off-putting, but as soon as I walked in I realized that The Wine Merchant is so much more. 

When I opened the door I was hit with the unmistakable scent of slow-roasted meat wafting throughout the deli side of the store, and instantly my hesitations vanished. As I walked past the aisles of regional and imported wines I realized The Wine Merchant is less of a wine store and more of a small-scale market that happens to specialize in fine wines. I was there for the food, so I made a beeline for the deli counter.

Like just about any deli you venture to, The Wine Merchant features a handful of standard meat selections such as roast beef, turkey and pastrami among others, but what struck me looking at this menu was how creative they were willing to be. The sandwich selections at The Wine Merchant all had a touch of playfulness about them—for me, that's the sign of a chef who is willing to take the time to go one step further. Items such as the black or white Russian sandwich featuring roast beef on pumpernickel and smoked turkey on rye, respectively,  or the pepper spray wrap featuring pepper smoked turkey, pepper jack cheese and pepper parmesan dressing, throw those little twists on old favorites that make simple ingredients exciting. 

Creativity of course will only get you so far, and where the inventive choices lead off, the quality of product at The Wine Merchant follows suit. Every item I sampled, from the cornucopia sub to the power house sandwich to the raven’s roost club, featured bold flavors and fresh, tasty ingredients always complemented by great bread. Even the non-sandwich fare such as the pesto mozzarella salad or the selections of pickled peppers were carefully prepared and extremely flavorful. 

So I suppose the only downfall of The Wine Merchant is that you can’t exactly sit down and dine in. But look at it this way: At your average deli you can order the same old food and stare at a rack of potato chips while you wait for it to be slapped together, or you can head to The Wine Merchant and choose from some inventive and delicious options, spending your wait time perusing a selection of fantastic wines from all over the world.  If you’re like me you’ll choose the latter. If you see me in the courtyard of Greenspring Station getting some lunch, bring your sandwich over and join me—we can argue which one is better.