FOOD REVIEW: Umi Sake

One thing you learn quickly, when you write about restaurants, is just about everyone you talk to seems to know a sushi restaurant that “you’ve just got to try.”

Fortunately, most of the time these little tips tend to pan out. So when I heard about Umi Sake restaurant and sushi bar in Cockeysville, I decided it was worth a visit.

As I arrived at Umi Sake, located at 9726 York Road, just a short drive north from Lutherville, I was a bit concerned at first glance.

That’s not to say the exterior was unattractive. In fact it was just the opposite, with a well-manicured front façade and a billboard announcing its presence.

While I have nothing against looking your best, I just tend to find that when it comes to sushi, the folks who really do it right like to let the food do most of the talking.

Nevertheless, I decided to give it a shot.

But once inside, my fear turned quickly to confusion.

While the interior was certainly very clean and modern looking, the stark white walls combined with the swanky, fully stocked bar, and the very isolated and almost romantic table layout, were far more reminiscent of an upscale Modern American joint than a tradition Japanese eatery. Sure, there were hints of Japan speckled throughout the dining room, such as the decorative flower arrangements, or the free-standing gong at the corner of the bar, but such details were few and far between.

Maybe I’m just a sucker for wooden walls and cherry blossom paintings, but something about the open white space felt very disconcerting to me.

Of course, as always, what I really care about is the food.

As I was handed my menu along with the daily sushi specials, I began to cheer up as I noticed the extensive choices of both sushi and Japanese entrees.

Unfortunately, as I continued to turn pages, I also found choice after choice of items that were far outside the Japanese spectrum.

From the Thai Coconut Shrimp, to the Spicy Rack of Lamb, to the Sunday brunch menu with such options as bagels, French toast and eggs benedict, it seems as though Umi Sake subscribes to the philosophy of making your menu big enough that customers will always be able to find something that doesn’t scare them. Sure, that may be a plus for some, but as for myself, I subscribe to the notion that if I didn’t want Japanese food, I wouldn’t be dining in a Japanese restaurant. So I don’t mind if you leave the French egg dish off the menu.

Now as for the food itself, the results were a bit of a mixed bag.  

On the one hand, a few of the sushi choices ranked right up there with some of the best I’ve tasted anywhere in town. The Trifecta Roll consisting of spicy salmon, yellow tail eel and avocado was incredibly fresh and tender, as was the Yuzu Seared Tuna Roll, which featured two types of tuna topped with yuzu and crispy flakes.  

Unfortunately, along with those beautiful and flavorful rolls, I also found myself with some selections that just seemed like an afterthought. I love Yakitori and naturally was excited when I saw Yakitorios on the starter menu, but when they came out, I found myself chewing on a chicken skewer that was not only very bland, but also unevenly cooked.  

Likewise, the Seared Scallop entrée was served as one element on cast iron sizzle pan, along with assorted vegetables, all of which were over-cooked and over-dressed with a sweet sauce.  

I absolutely hate giving bad reviews to places that serve good food, so I’ll do my best to be gentle here.  

At face value, Umi Sake could be a lot worse. That does not make up for the fact that it could and should be so much better. This, for me, is another sad example of sacrificing quality in order to maximize popularity, and in these cases, it is always the food that suffers. Just because you are afraid that some people will not like raw fish does not mean you need to include a sushi roll that features Chicken Tempura and Honey Glazed Walnuts (and yes, that is an actual item on Umi Sake’s menu). You just need to make the really great sushi you are capable of making, and be confident that sushi lovers will find you.   

So is Umi Sake worth visiting?  

The short answer is, if you love great sushi, then sure, give it a try, and you will likely leave happy. But if you want a true Japanese dining experience, then you might want to pass this one by for now.