REVIEW: Fuji San Restaurant

Finding exceptional Thai food in Timonium has been near impossible. To be fair, many of the Japanese or Chinese restaurants around town do tend to offer Thai selections sprinkled among the back pages of their menus. However, until this week, I had yet to come across a dining destination where I could find a true collection of traditional Thai delicacies. 

Little did I know that nearby on York Road there was an answer to my Thai cuisine cravings in the form of a little stop known as Fuji San Su-Fen Sesum.

Admittedly, I’ve driven past Fuji San many times and had always just written it off as another on the list of many in town. But upon closer examination, I realized that this was no ordinary Japanese restaurant.  In fact, though Fuji San is labeled as “Thai & Japanese Food”, the “Japanese” part is all but a formality. 

Sure, has a sushi bar and if you are set in your sushi ways I suppose it’s no sin to take advantage of it, but for me, this place is all about the Thai food and I have to say they do it right.

Judging by its great location, and its oversized front marquee, you would imagine the dining room at Fuji San to be spacious and elaborate. Once inside, however, you’ll find it’s quite the opposite. 

With only a handful of tables and a very modest, simple design, the cozy dining room sets the perfect atmosphere for some old-school Thai comfort food.

With one look at the menu you can be sure that the owners of Fuji San are on my side in the Japanese vs. Thai food battle as the sushi menu plays a distant second fiddle to the diverse Thai fare. 

The appetizers alone are an exploration of texture and flavors of Thailand ranging from Thai pork sausage to Red Curry Tod Mun (fried shrimp and fish cakes with peanut sauce).  From there, it only gets more and more authentic with page after page of old-school goodness. 

From dishes many of us know and love, such as Pad Thai noodles, to exotic dishes, such as Gaeng Phed Ped Yang (red duck curry), Pad Khing (stir fried ginger) or the Pad Kee Mao (drunken noodles), this menu doesn’t disappoint.

Anyone who has tried to make curry can tell you that it is no picnic, and on top of a curry-heavy menu, Fuji San offers some really technically demanding dishes. 

Naturally, with such a loaded menu I was a bit skeptical that the execution would be up to snuff but again, I was pleasantly surprised.  My Tod Mun was not only bursting with flavor, but the dish managed to not be greasy after coming straight from the fire.  Our entrees followed suit, with the Pad Thai having great heat and texture, and my Panang Curry striking a great balance between the sweetness of coconut milk and the subtle spice notes of coriander and cumin. 

Just the aromas coming from our table were enough to make this a go-to destination time and time again.

With the market for Thai food virtually cornered, Fuji San could easily jack up their prices, but let’s not tell them that because for now, the values are great.  With appetizers ranging from $3-$7 and most entrees clocking in around $12 (with the priciest item at a mere $17), Fuji San is an absolute must-visit dinner destination. 

So yes, I’ll be eating sushi as much as ever, but when the urge for some great Thai food strikes me, I know where I’ll be headed and I suggest you do the same. 

Do you agree or disagree? Let us know in the comments section!