Cordial Cocktails at Ten Tables Bar

On a recent summer’s evening, with temperatures in the 90’s, my editor and I made a stop at for one of their creative cocktails.  Though the bustling bar at the elegant eatery appeared to be standing room only, beverage director and super sommelier somehow managed to find seats for us near the window overlooking steamy Centre Street.

Ten Tables does not possess a full liquor license.  Instead, the restaurant operates with what is known as a "cordials license." According to DrinkBoston.com, the cordial license was reportedly created in 1994 to accomodate restaurants owners in the North End who wanted to offer their diners a shot of Sambuco or other traditional liqueurs at the end of their meals.  As the sociable Stan explained, the cordials caveat permits the sale of wine, beer, and reduced alcohol drinks.

Necessity, as the say, is the mother of invention. Ten Tables boasts a beverage menu of absolutely inspired concoctions.  The “KK-Kamikaze,” ($10) for example, is made with passion fruit, ginger, and champagne.  The luscious sounding “Lavender Fizz” ($10) features home-infused lavender vodka and organic blueberry seltzer. 

How to choose?  We placed ourselves in the hands of inventive bartender Joe Choiniere, who mixed us up two of his recommendations. 

Joe’s first summery suggestion was a “South Street Swizzle.”  ($10) The cocktail contains green chartreuse, lime, fresh pineapple juice, crushed ice, and falernum.  For those, like me, who are unfamiliar with falernum, it is sweet syrup common in the Caribbean that is flavored with cloves, almonds and ginger.  The ruby-hued beverage had the look of a fizzy Cape Codder but its sweet and evanescent flavor was certainly more subtle and complex.

The “Absinthe Frappé” ($10) he made for us was a mind-blowing mix of absinthe, pineapple and lime juices, and cream.  “It’s unusual to have cream in a summer drink,” said Choiniere.  The pale pastel-tinted drink, he told us, is inspired by a classic New Orleans specialty.  Colored by the addition of the once prohibited poison, it was a magical mix that nearly evaporated on the tongue, light as a breeze blowing off Jamaica Pond.

The next time that you are oppressed by the heat and humidity, stop in at for one of their too-cool-to-be-true cocktails.  The only thing more cordial than the drinks they serve is the friendly reception that you will receive.

Located at 599 Centre Street, Ten Tables & TT Bar (617-524-8810) is open Monday through Thursday 5:30 p.m. - 10:00 p.m., Friday & Saturday 5:30 - 11:00 p.m., and Sunday 3:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m.