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Vegan Pizza Leads Bella Luna's Lineup of Meat-Free Treats

A vegan pizza taste test at one of only a few Boston restaurants to offer the dairy-free delicacy.

Located at the post-industrial Brewery complex, offers an elegant, candlelit ambience.  The menu is mostly Italian-influenced bistro fare with salads, sandwiches, pasta, steak, chicken, seafood dishes, and a large selection of pizzas.   A little surprisingly, vegetarian options are available but they are not extensive. 

Meatless appetizers include the “Mediterranean Duet “ ($9) comprising hummus and eggplant dips served with fresh vegetables and flatbread.  “Quasar Quesadillas” ($8) are available in a roasted vegetable variety made with shredded cheddar cheese and salsa. Veggie diners might also elect to start their meal with the soup of the day ($4.50 cup or $6.50 bowl,) which was “Carrot Ginger” at the time of my visit.  There’s also a wide selection of salads ranging in price from $6 for a small “Bella House Salad” to $9 for a large “Arugula Salad.”

Vegetarian entrees include “Mac & Cheese” ($16), which can be made without bacon, and “Rustic Eggplant Parmesan” ($15) served with linguini.  One of the day’s specials was “Zucchini Pasta” ($15), flavored with olive oil, garlic, and basil, and dressed with sugar snap peas and wilted arugula.  The “Butternut Squash Ravioli” ($15), another of the specials, was an ample portion of freshly made ravioli.  The ravioli were served in a creamy, sage-flavored sauce, dressed with walnuts, parmesan cheese, and a decorative drizzle of reduced balsamic vinegar.  The dish was nicely balanced.  The sweetness of the squash combined well with the acidic addition of the sour swirl of vinegar.  It was rich without being artery-clogging decadent.

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Bella Luna's is probably best known for its pizzas.  The restaurant is one of only a few in Boston that makes vegan pizza.  (Allston's Peace o' Pie  was recently nominated by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals as one of  eleven restaurants nationwide serving the best vegan pizza.) You can also get vegan pizza at .

My waiter, Robin, explained that the eatery uses “Daiya brand” soy cheese in its vegan pizzas.  (Vegans will note that not all soy cheeses are dairy-free.  Some brands use a dairy by-product called "rennet.")

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“It’s a premium soy cheese,” he said, “and it has with a nice melt.”

Without the unwanted complications of any toppings, I ordered  “The Simple Simon” ($7 small, $11 large) with soy cheese ($3 small, $4 large.)  The vegan “Simple Simon” was pizza at its most basic.  It consisted solely of Bella Luna’s dough, which is made fresh daily, a special tomato sauce prepared without cheese, and soy mozzarella. 

The large, vegan “Simple Simon” was a good-sized pizza, consisting of eight large slices.  I invited a adjacent table of obliging diners to share the humble pie with me. 

The party of five was unanimous in their opinion that they would not have known that the pizza was vegan had I not told them. “It’s nicely seasoned and cheesy,” said Martha.  Her companion Michael, who earlier had enjoyed a dinner of meatballs, told me, “I’m definitely not a vegan. But I would have it again. Though it could use a little spice.”  “It’s complex,” remarked David. “The pizza tastes like there are two or three types of cheese.”   Laura, his wife, added, “I agree with everything that everyone said.  It’s quite tasty!”  Hannah, the sole vegetarian in the group, said “It’s delicious and tastes like dairy cheese.  Though since it sticks to your teeth,” she laughed, “I wouldn’t eat it on a date.” 

Personally, I would have to agree with the opinions of the random sampling that I took.  The “Simple Simon” was cheesy, tasty, complex, and perhaps a little bland.  The pizza would probably have profited from the addition of some veggie toppings ($2) such as garlic, mushrooms, or sun-dried tomatoes.  And it certainly did stick to one’s teeth, although this hardly mattered in the dimly lit restaurant as I gobbled down the last slice.

Bella Luna's is of course part of the Milky Way Lounge.  Having been a Hyde Square institution for more than a decade, some two years ago the restaurant and nightclub move to its present location.  By all appearances, the business has prospered at the Brewery complex.  On several visits, both the restaurant and bar were crowded with convivial diners and drinkers.  With nightly entertainment at the Milky Way ranging from trivia contests to line dancing and a weekly Latin dance party on Saturday nights, there is a fun, pleasant atmosphere.  Service is certainly friendly and agreeable.  Menu items are priced a little higher than most of the other restaurants reviewed in this space, but Bella Luna's offers a delicious and premium dining experience.

Located at 284 Amory Street, Bella Luna and the Milky Way Lounge (617-524-6060) is open for dinner Sunday -Thursday from 5pm - 10pm, and Friday and Saturday from 5pm - 11pm.  The restaurant serves lunch on Saturdays, starting at 11 am.

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