Special Places, Portugal and River Cruising on the Douro

We have a deep affection for the country of Portugal and wonderful memories of our visits. In 1992, we traveled to Lisbon, the city of seven hills, Sintra and Pena Palace, Queluz Palace, and north to Obidos, a beautifully maintained walled city. At the time of this visit, our daughter was a one-year-old. Men and women alike adore babies and our daughter was constantly being whisked away to meet kitchen staff in hotels and restaurants while I ran to keep her within sight. With her in a backpack, we enjoyed hiking along winding paths by the sea with dramatic views of gorgeous rock formations in Praia de Alvor, Algarve.

We returned years later with our teenage daughter Michelle and a girlfriend. The Algarve was built up in some areas but it still retained some of it's charm. We made a visit to Evora, another lovely walled city in the middle of the country & a Unesco World Heritage Site. We stayed on the outskirts of Lisbon in a lovely hotel by the sea and returned to Pena Palace in Sintra. We had very fond memories of our first visit there and we knew Michelle and her friend would have a fun time exploring this magical castle.

During both of these visits, I lamented there was not enough time to visit Porto. From everything I'd read, Porto was still very old world and relatively untouched and Iiwanted to visit before this all changed. When a great opportunity came our way to sail the Douro River in northern Portugal, we were ready! This river has created the spectacular Douro River Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rambling vineyards and charming native farms called quintas cling to the steep sides of the Douro River Valley, creating an incomparable backdrop to one of Europe’s most unspoiled regions and to Port country—the oldest demarcated wine region in the world.

We began our voyage in Porto, the beautiful “City of Bridges,” with its UNESCO World Heritage-designated Medieval city center. "Port” wine historically takes its name from Porto from which it was shipped. The region was so significant that the country took its name from Porto and the neighboring city of Gaia. Travelers can take a cruise up to the Spanish border and tour the local wine-producing cellars.  

As we boarded our ship, we were anticipating both our first river cruise as well as visiting the vineyards and exploring the pristine beauty of northern Portugal. The charm of the ship, meeting of our fellow passengers and crew were a wonderful beginning to a great cruise and fond memories. After meeting the captain and the entire crew at the Welcome Cocktail, we enjoyed the first gourmet dinner onboard and the included wine.

The seven-night cruise was a relaxing experience through the beautiful Douro Valley, with it's lush vineyards. The weather was always on our side—it was sunny and warm, never hot. Continuously, the crew went above and beyond to accomodate everyone’s needs and exceeded our expectations. 

The stops along the river were at charming villages and towns where time has stopped, and things have not changed for hundreds of years. We went to Lamego and the Alpendurada Monastery, which are places of pilgrimage in this Catholic country. In Lamego, we all tried to count the over 610 stairs back from the Sanctuary of our Lady of Remedies, but no one in our group came up with the same number. During our visit there, several dedicated worshippers climbed the stairs on their knees.

Another highlight was a tour of the spectacular Mateus Palace. The Palace has been described as one of the most beautiful country houses in all of Portugal. It has been made famous worldwide for being featured on the label of Mateus Rosé wine and it is well worth a visit for a glimpse into the lives of the Portuguese aristocracy. Built in 1745, it is considered a perfect example of baroque architecture, with an impressive façade made up of beautiful pinnacles on the roof and an ornate balustraded stairway, all reflecting on a pond in front of it. Behind it is a delightful garden, among the most beautiful in Europe, with box hedges, statues, and a spectacular cedar tunnel about 35m (115ft) long

At the Alpendurada Monastery we were served a great traditional Portuguese dinner and a glass of green wine, while enjoying the breathtaking view over the Douro River. Our other dinner off the ship was at the Vintage House Hotel in Pinhão, a magnificent 18th-century quinta where we tasted a wide variety of Port wines. On the way back to  our ship we had a chance to party with the locals as they celebrated Portugal’s victory in a European football game.

As we docked each evening, the locals were invited onboard to entertain. The Portuguese musicians entertained us with song and dance as we discovered the happy part of the fado music.

We tasted a variety of local wines from village vineyards, including Port wine, the region's sweet fortified wine. The wine in Portugal is still produced the same as hundreds of years ago—the grapes are manually picked up and smashed with the feet. The region of Douro is abundant in vineyards. We experienced first-hand the labors of the local wineries with a wine tasting in Pinhão.

Another highlight of the cruise was the day to Salamanca, which is a UNESCO Heritage Site. We had a great Spanish lunch at the Monterey Hotel and a  city tour, which included a visit to the University, founded in 1175, the House of Shells and the Church of San Martin. What a wonderful city with so much history, especially the history of the university. That evening flamenco dancers came onboard and treated us to a wonderful performance!

Our last stop in Porto was a wonderful time. We loved the narrow cobble stone streets where the old trams go back and forth, the large and beautiful squares of the city, the way the Portuguese people hang their clothes to dry in front of their windows, and of course, we enjoyed the included wine tasting at the Ferreira winery. Some of us also visited Sandeman's, whose logo is the mysterious figure in the black coat and famous fedora, as well as Gordon's and a few others.

All along the way, we experienced a land of genuine beauty, breathtaking charm and meeting the warm-hearted, friendly people of this region of Portugal.

For me, this cruise was such a unique experience that I highly recommend it to those who love beautiful nature, history, fun and great wine! This hidden gem is for those seeking to explore an unspoiled river valley with lovely vistas, storied towns and lively cities. True wine connoisseurs and food aficionados will enjoy indulging in the regions celebrated Port wine and local cuisine. The Douro Valley region is not yet crowded so be among the first ones to experience all the beauty it has to offer!

Our river cruise was with AMA Waterways on the MS Amadouro. Uniworld, another of the finest river cruise companies,  has recently built a brand new vessel just for the Douro. If you would like to learn more about river cruising, please contact Carol Rice at 978-218-2700 or Email: crice@cruiseplanners.com or visit website: www.seatheworldcruises.net 

Please let us know about your favorite travel experiences and those special places with wonderful memories for you.