The Inside Scoop On Fair Food Judging

I'll always remember the look on the face of the State Fair food judge who was assigned the task of assessing 49 loaves of zucchini bread.

That was years ago when I was doing a story about judging in my former life as a food writer for the St. Paul Pioneer Press, reporting the judge's combined expressions of dismay and determination to get the job done.

Lola Whalen of Oakdale, who co-chaired with Roseville's Shirley Barber the task of judging all canning and baking for this year's State Fair, can top that zucchini bread overload.

She's faced over a hundred loaves of banana bread, but here's the saving grace: "We only have to taste the top 25," Whalen said, speaking of those that survive on their visual perfection and were entered by contestants who followed all rules such as pan size.

A loaf with a burnt edge or a sunken middle gets evaluated and scored, but likely doesn't meet the judge's taste buds.

The team tackling tables overflowing with baked items and canned goods comes prepared with both professional credentials and years of experience in Fair judging.

Whalen has been a cookbook food editor and Bake-Off official for Pillsbury, and Shirley Barber was a family educator the Ramsey County Extension.

But sometimes the task requires exceptional skills.

"We have one judge who we call "Firemouth" because she doesn't shy away from fiery salsas or peppery pickles." But even that person has her limits, said Whalen. "She started choking when she finally encountered a salsa that was too hot, even for her."

Those who enter their kitchen creations in the Fair do it for the ribbons, not usually for the prize money, which barely covers the cost of ingredients—should the entrant win.

In recent years, a spate of sponsored events, such as the Karo Cookie Contest, the King Arthur Flour Great Cake Contest and the Ghirardelli Chocolate competition have upped the possibility for serious money, but there's an underlying reason Minnesota's bakers and canners compete.

"People get  hooked. It's like Old Home Week. When they stand in line with their entries, they greet each other like long-lost friends, sharing recipes and tips," notes Maralyn Gilleland of Little Canada, who has loved fairs since she was a 4-H'er, long before she became a home economics teacher and veteran State Fair judge.

"I enjoy seeing the number of people who are repeat winners because they follow the rules and they know what the judges want," said Gilleland, emphasizing that all entries are anonymous until winners are revealed.

Here's one vital piece of advice several judges mentioned: "Use fresh ingredients!" Rancid walnuts and over-the-hill baking powder kill any chance of winning.

Entries surged this year to all-time highs in most categories, but display space in the Creative Activities Building for all those homemade foods hasn't expanded.

The 17 judges are also warned to bring their own knives for slicing because the ones on hand were likely found at garage sales and haven't been kissed by a sharpener.

But those limitations are surpassed, in Shirley Barber's mind, by the sheer wonder of seeing how many different ways bakers and canners can present their artistry. Her reward: "Seeing that glorious cake or that perfect loaf of bread."

Barber was especially enamoured by a jar of salty-sweet watermelon pickles made with the pink flesh, not the green rind, submitted by a White Bear Lake canner. "I never expect to see a better one," Barber said.

Marlene Banttari of Roseville, who was an educational manager for Pillsbury during her long food career, is a veteran of 27 State Fair food judgings. "We sometimes hear comments about 'the old judges' but we bring experience," Banttari said.

She knows when apples are underbaked in a pie, and has the skills to narrow down dozens of herb breads to reach the 25 that earn taste-testing in the ribbon round. 

"Sure, there are all kinds of stories we judges could tell" about disastrous entries, said Banttari, but she chose to be positive.

"I am amazed at the talents of so many Minnesotans who enter the Fair, and it's encouraging to realize that the children and grandchildren of past prizewinners are carrying on family food traditions. It's not that hard to do, and the results are special in so many ways."