Escaping School Cafeteria-Like Tomato Sauce

The downfall of many tomato sauces is a flavor more akin to tomato puree with sugar than a fresh, tangy and zesty tomato sauce. That sweet, cloying, school cafeteria-like sauce is completely unnecessary. Although fresh tomatoes are preferable, they are not a requirement.

Tomatoes, botanically a fruit, are blessed with an incredibe balance of flavor. That is, provided that they are ripe, and not a genetically modified, hybridized clone. There are endless varieties with subtleties differentiating them. When allowed to ripen on the vine, the flesh becomes sweet and its juice tangy. Adding a sprinkle of salt concentrates and brightens the flavors, to the point where nothing else is needed to complete the taste. When cooked, the flesh of the juicy tomato breaks down easily and makes a sauce with great consistency.

Auguste Escoffier classified tomato sauce as one of the five "mother sauces." A mother sauce is one that all others are derived from. The remaining four are hollandaise, espagnole, veloute, and béchamel. Escoffier was one of the most important leaders in the history of French cuisine, credited with revolutionizing and modernizing the cuisine as a whole, using lighter sauces and seasonal foods, as well as streamlining the professional kitchen.

Tomato sauce is most commonly associated with pasta, but can be used in stews, with Parmigiana, over grilled vegetables and anywhere else it seems tasty. Making fresh tomato sauce involves the added step of blanching the tomatoes and peeling them. Buying them canned can speed up the process considerably.

The Whole Foods blog has helpful suggestions "In-a-Pinch Pasta Dinners"  using many of the ingredients available in the Whole Foods store in Town and Country. offers fresh heirloom tomatoes (for those making fresh sauce), San Marzano canned tomatoes, sauce in a jar, Parmesan, pecorino and romano cheeses, an olive bar (a great addition to tomato sauce), as well as a variety of spices and fresh herbs. As if that wasn't enough, the store also has great fresh vegetables such as portabello mushrooms, peppers, and zucchini, along with grilled vegetables in the prepared foods department.

and in Town and Country and and in Manchester all have the necessary ingredients to make a great pasta sauce as well.

After choosing fresh or canned tomatoes, it is quite easy to make a brilliant sauce. Starting with a base of sautéed onions and garlic, seasoned with oregano, basil and/or parsley, red pepper flakes and topped with some cheese, you can't go wrong. It is easy to escape the school cafeteria-like sauces. For chunky sauces with chopped vegetables, meat or beans, choose a short pasta such as rotini, penne or farfale. The different textures will blend well together. For smoother sauces such as ell blended tomato or  cream sauces, choose longer pastas such as spaghetti, linguine or capellini.

Tomato Sauce 

Ingredients

2 pounds tomatoes (canned whole or crushed tomatoes are a fine substitution, if desired)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon oregano, dry
1/4 cup red wine
1 pound linguine
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
1/4 cup basil, sliced in ribbons (chiffonade)
pinch red pepper flakes (optional)
1/4 cup basil, chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste

Method for blanching the tomatoes:

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and prepare an ice water bath (bowl of water with ice).
2. Cut a small "x" on the bottom of each tomato. Place the tomatoes in the boiling water a few at a time and blanch them for about 45 seconds, or until the skins are easy to peel away. Remove and immediately place the tomatoes in the ice bath.
3. Peel the tomatoes and discard the skins. Some people cut the tomato in half, squeeze out and remove the seeds. I prefer to keep the juice and seeds.
4. Chop the tomatoes for use in the sauce.

For the pasta and the sauce:

1. Over medium flame, heat the olive oil and add the onions, cooking until translucent.
2. Add the garlic, thyme, and oregano and sautée for 2 minutes until the garlic is softened and golden brown.
3. Add the wine and simmer two minutes, reducing the liquid and evaporating the alcohol.
4. Add the tomatoes and stir well. Lower the heat and cook slowly until the mixture thickens, about 15 minutes.
5. Season with salt and pepper.
6. Cook the linguine in boiling, salted water. Drain the pasta and add it to the sauce. Add the Parmesan, red pepper flakes and basil and toss well.