Can Anybody Hear Us Out There?

I hope you guys have been scoring some of these sneaky little waves we've been getting the last couple of weeks. I mean, it's been day after day there for a while. Just some of the most fun waves that any of us could imagine. Seems like every day, or every other day there's surf.

And yes, it's getting warmer. Clearly 3/2 temps.

Some guys are going no gloves and others are peeling off the booties as well. Summer is coming. Heck it's almost here. Another few weeks and we could be right smack dab in the middle of AC cranking days.

Figures, I just got over paying monthly heating bills. Now my electric bill will be going up. There's no end in sight. I wonder who can save us? Mitt or Barack? Republicans or Democrats? Who? Can anybody hear us out there? Hello?

Personally, I don't care who, just as long as we get help. I swear if politicians could simply get over the novelty of being president and just start doing what they are supposed to do, I believe none of us would care which party sits in the Oval Office, as long as the economy was thriving again, and there was world peace.

Right now, it's all about the economy. Let's get this country back on it's feet. Let's get working again. Let's all make enough money again, so we can all go surfing somewhere fun... and tropical. Can I get an amen people? Can I get a bar of surf wax?

I wonder who will be the first Surfer President? Kelly Slater? Nah.

Ok, so I was staring at the latest batch of photos that found their way into my inbox this week, in my never ending stream of incoming emails. I was as always, able to pick out certain surfers simply by looking at their stance. Or their pose.
Whatever you want to call it. The bottom line is, I was able to recognize certain surfers, because I know their style.

Call it our own surf DNA, but it's rather remarkable to think that we all have such unique and different stances. It's true. Then I thought how funny it is to think that we all have a certain way of standing on our boards, that make each and every one of us unique. It's crazy to think that we all have our own style.

I mean is surfing really that unique? It can't be. Or can it?

The answer is yes. It can and does. We all have our own style. We all have this foundation that is embedded in our surfing life style. And I have been able to pick out individuals simply by looking at their stance.

I can't tell you how many times a person would ask me..."How do you know it's this or that person?" They would ask. And I would typically just answer because I know. I know that style. I know that stance. And nine times out of ten, I do.

"But they all look alike!" They would say. And I would nod yes.

To the untrained eye they all look alike, but for those of us who know better, we know what we are looking for. And having said that, we all have this certain stance that is our trademark. Our own foundation to the rest of our surfing. Good or bad, it's ours.

And look, by good I mean simply, to look good standing still.

That's a little harsh I know, but it's true. We all have a certain stance. Don't believe me? Ask any longtime surfer the same question, Or better yet, show them pics of any of their close friends surfing, and they will point it out to you.

We are all not Kelly Slater's and Dane Reynolds.

We are who we are. Local surfers who have un-wittingly developed our own surf style. Yet to the trained eye, can be picked out in a heartbeat. I can do it with all my friends. Just by their stance. And I am talking 100's of surfers that I know personally. We all have our own stance. Every last one of us.

Like Mackey below...check his left arm. That's MVF all the way. I know of only one other surfer who does this. Zap. But he uses his right arm. Still, it is a giveaway when I see it.

Another reason why surfing is so freaking cool and unique.

And just to clarify this theory. Our stance is the same on a two foot wave as it is on a 10 foot wave. Our stance remains the same. As does everyone's. I was made aware of that as well this week. Staring at a photo of a famous surfer inside a major 15' barrel. His stance I recognized was the same stance he
uses in a smaller insignificant wave.

It's the wave that makes us look good. Our stance is just fluff.

It is and always will be the wave. And again, another reason why Surfing on any coast, and at any level, is so freaking beautiful. The wave dictates the awe. The gazing at a photo, the going back to look at it again and again. Yes, we want to see the rider (especially if it's you), but the telling factor is always the wave.

Seeing yourself standing there like Kelly at backdoor, on a two foot mushburger, is not very appealing. Seeing that same EXACT stance/pose on a double overhead wave, is five times the rush. For both the viewer and the rider.

Same stance different waves. Two different animals.

Standing there is only part of the attraction. It's what you are standing on, that gets the blood pumping. The Wave. Better to look good than to feel good when it comes to surfing. Wait did I just write that? I did, I am obviously going on little to no sleep.

My daughter went on her Junior prom last night...

I guess I still can't believe she's not a little girl anymore. When did this all happen? When did my little girl become this young woman? Where was I when this transformation happened? Was my head stuck in the sand like a lot of dads? Or did I refuse to acknowledge my baby growing up...?

I guess a little of both.

So a lot of us Surf Parents are at the age where our surf kids are growing up around us and going off to things like...oh The Prom! I remember when my oldest first went to the Prom. I was fit to be tied. I could not fathom some goofy boy taking my daughter to "The Prom" without imagining him planting kisses on her all night! The mere thought of that, was upsetting. It still is.

I had speeches all planned out that covered the absurd, to the ultimate passive approach. For the record, all three of my kids have now joined ranks with one another as far as going to their High School Junior Prom. And another thing, my approach was the same for my son, as it was for our daughters.

Maybe a little more relaxed with the boy, but not by much.

And yes, I will admit that my daughters were more worrisome for me personally, because, well, I'm a guy. I know what guys are like. Most guys are jerks (sorry my brothers...but it's true). And I know, this is my curse. Or rather one of many curses.

Having two daughters...it's God's way of saying "Now it's your turn to squirm son..." I jokingly wanted to say to the boys who took my daughters to the prom. "When you start thinking about kissing my daughters, I want you to think about my face. " When you look into my daughter's eyes, I want you to visualize my eyes, staring back at you. Creepy huh? It worked.

"And when you close your eyes and try to kiss her...I want you to open them, and think of my mean face inches from yours. If that does not deter you, then we have a serious problem."

But honestly? I was more than understanding and pleasant.
My approach was based all on common sense, and making the right choices. And Thank God my simple message of being smart, was the right call. "Just be smart. Don't do the wrong thing. Recognize the situation, and do the right thing. Have
fun and be smart."

That worked. There were no phone calls in the middle of the night. Everyone had fun...and more importantly, everyone
was smart. No wrong decisions were made. Thank God...


Now for some of my Weekly Global Observances:

Peter Fuller passed away this week. Peter Fuller was an Icon on the seacoast for many many years. He lived to a good age though, 89 years old. Peter had many connections to the surf world here. Some of his daughters married surfers, and many of his grandchildren surfed. He lived a rich, full, and rewarding life. He will be missed by many who knew him and his family. He was a Marine who served during WWII.

Rest In Peace Peter...and Semper Fi Marine.

Kalid Sheik Mohammed (KSM) the Mastermind behind 9/11 and his band of merry prankster terrorists are still causing all kinds of disruption at GITMO during this absurd trial. What a bunch of losers. It's so easy to forget what he looked like the night he was captured. In case you forgot here is it again. This is by far my favorite photo of him.

[Editor's note: Photo attached above.]

See how unhappy he looks? This was taken after the brave Special OPS agents woke him up at 3:30AM and took this very unflattering photo of him in Pakistan in 2003. Poor Kalid...his murderous plans for killing more innocent Americans were over that night. You can almost see it in his sad terrorist eyes. Penny for your thoughts Kaliddy?

I plan on keeping this photo up every week until his trial is over. Loser.

Come on Celtics...don't let this slip away. You're all we've got for the time being. Come on now...C's...come on.