Sharing a Wave

I have to admit, I was actually debating whether or not to even run the Ole column/blog this weekend. It is after all , The BIGGEST Holiday of the year. Christmas, Chanukah, Kwanza, Festivus. Oh Festivus! What a Glorious day!

I figure if there's ever a time to take a break surely you would all agree that this weekend would be it. So, I sort of figured on a compromise of sorts. Oh don't get me wrong kids, I'm giving you some fresh images from Ben Ginsberg and the Phantom on the West Coast, and a few from my own lens that I shot on Monday. (Albeit mine are weak at best)...But they are FRESH!

However, the majority of the photos this week, are all EMPTY Waves that were shot by all the super talented Photographers this past year who make this weekly blog what it is. Wait til you see the hundreds of empty wave photos I have. You all know how much I love the empty wave.

I was thinking, if there was one thing you could give a Surfer for Christmas or Chanukah this year, what would it be? Something that does not cost a cent, but would mean so much to a surfer. Do you know what that is? Come on think...what would any surfer want from a fellow surfer? Give up?

OK I'll tell you...an EMPTY WAVE! Give it up for the "empty wave gift."

I mean who among us would not want an empty wave? Hello? We all want one. The trouble is, who would actually give one up for a friend? Or a surfer you hardly know? Could you give someone a wave? Just turn and say..."Hey man this wave is yours...it's my gift to you..."

Happy Holidays. Merry Christmas. Happy Chanukah. Happy Kwanza...whatever.

Could you actually stop yourself from going on a set wave, and let someone else have it as a gift? I know you are saying "Yea I could do that easy..." But when it actually came down to the act. Could you? It's easy for me to say I could. I can't surf until April with my knee injury. But having just completed a year's worth of surfing, I could without any hesitation turn and give someone a wave. In fact, I could give a total stranger a wave. No question.

And I have this past year. I know others who have too.

But I also know, that some of you are out there to get as many waves as you possibly can, without the slightest thought of sharing them. Look, lest you think that I am standing high on the pulpit preaching the good word here, you should know, that there was a time in my life when I was like that. Stingy. Not sharing.

I was an asshole out in the water. Trying to get as many waves as possible.

Like the world was coming to an end if I didn't fill a certain wave quota in my head. And I admit that was wrong. Dead wrong. I guess we all learn these things the older we get. Though some do not. And you know who you are.

So may I suggest that you all try giving that wave up the next time we have decent waves. And there's no need to make a big deal about it. You can be very discreet. Imagine how surprised the recipient of that wave will feel when you suddenly back off the wave, and give them the nod, or wink, that 'Go ahead...this is yours..." Imagine what could, or would happen out there.

Maybe we might start a trend. Can you imagine? Sharing waves? With friends and strangers? My God what would people think?

I know some of you are thinking I'm getting soft in my older years. And I might just be. But I was thinking, how hard things are these days, and how the simple act of giving during the Holidays gets lost on a lot of us. Especially surfers. But we are a unique tribe. And I like to think of us as being sensitive to so many emotions out there. Lets face it we are. Think about what we do. How we interact with nature that is so unlike any other sport out there.

We are so incredibly lucky to be able to do what we do. Ride waves.

So why not give a wave this Holiday Season to someone you know and respect. Why not give a wave to someone you do not know? I've got a feeling that simple act will come back to you ten fold. Give a wave. Get a wave.

Be good this Holiday season my friends. Share the love and the comfort and joy of our most unique lifestyle with your brothers and sisters.

May the absolute peace of our existence find you and your families this holiday season. And may you all have a safe, and healthy New Year.