Putting the 'Fancy' in Fancy Friday

By Tony Grassetti

As the Fall Fancy Friday quickly approaches, so, too, does the now familiar and festive task of acquiring a suitable outfit. Unlike previous Fancy Fridays, however, guests of this event are met with the additional challenge, albeit a gratifying one, of incorporating an early 1960s fashion theme inspired by the AMC program, “Mad Men.” As such, attendees must trade in their once-donned and extravagantly elegant formal wear, for a more contemporary retro-modern vibe. Although this may sound like a daunting effort, “Mad Men’s” sartorial influence has so ubiquitously infiltrated popular culture, one needn’t search beyond the nearest shopping mall (or thrift store) to find such inspired garments. With the aid of a few forthcoming tips for how to achieve the “Mad Men” look, the Fall Fancy Friday to benefit Veterans F.I.R.S.T. will for the first time have a uniquely streamlined and cohesive fashion profile.

A Brief Note on the Period

Regardless of whether you have seen the show “Mad Men,” most are keenly aware of its 1960s setting, as evidenced through promotional material highlighting the characters’ wardrobes. What must initially be understood, however, is the “1960s” do not exist in a decade-sealing vacuum. In other words, the early 1960s are very much a part of the late 1950s, and very much distant from the latter part of the decade. Thus, it would behoove the reader to jettison any notion of the Cultural Revolution and its psychedelic fashion so often associated with the “1960s.” With that being said, the early '60s were not without their freedoms as well. Women’s hemlines were rising, though not to the extreme. Men’s suites became less restrictive and boxy, though maintained their earth tone color pallets. Thus, it is helpful to imagine the era’s fashion as struggle between a desperately crumbling conservatism and women’s lib. A seismic tear between old-school wardrobes and the vanguards of “trend” resulting in the inimitable mix of old and new that is uniquely the early 1960s and what is soon to be definitively “Fancy Friday.”

For Women

A history of 1960s women’s fashion, no matter how brief, is impossible in an article of this length. Therefore, the following segment offers various outfit suggestions, from which your own choices may be inspired.

The Dress

When choosing a dress (or skirt), it is perhaps most important to focus on the knee. The majority of early '60s women’s dresses were either just below, or just above the knee. Whether A-line or pencil, the hemline should be the focus. Just below will present a more “traditional” approach (think again of the late 1950s) whereas just above the knee suggests a more flirtatious and sexy vibe.

Additionally, a high-waist will help achieve the distinctive silhouette of the “Mad Men” women. The waist should rest just above the hip, at the narrowest point of the figure. If you are unable to find a dress that fits these criteria, try a simple belt above the hips, creating the illusion of a high-waist. (for reference, see the included image of Banana Republic’s “Mad Men” line, which illustrates the importance of the high-waist). Finally, when considering the décolletage, both scoop necks and plunges are appropriate, though not to the extreme.

The Pant

If a dress or skirt is not to your liking, the option of pants is entirely viable. For women, a high-waisted Capri is to the period, and can be dressed up with a cotton or silk blouse. For the sexier version, try a sleeveless top as illustrated to the right. Do not feel restricted by color choices, as any shade will be appropriate. Again, the focus is on the waist and hemline, which should be just above the hips and just above the ankle, respectively. For a more conservative look, try a sweater cardigan. If going this route, be sure to add the “fancy” in your accessories, to avoid an overly casual look.

The Accessories

One of the most effective routes to achieving the “Mad Men” look is in the accessories and finishing styling. The primary effect of the accessories should be that of neatness and precision. If wearing a scoop neck or plunge top, try a chunky string of faux pearls or rhinestones. Typically the shape should circular, though this can be played with to compliment the cut of your top. Try to match your earrings to the necklace, as much as possible. If a matching set is out of reach, be sure to mirror the color to create cohesion. Again, the accessories should be “orderly.”

Equally critical is a well-appointed pair of shoes. A closed pointed toe with a snub heel is a classic option, as well as a T-strap Mary-Jane for a more “cutesy” approach. Try to avoid overly aggressive pumps, as they could derail the “period” aspect of your outfit. As for material, leather, suede, or patent are all acceptable options. Be sure to have fun with your shoe choice, as it can truly define the ensemble.

As a final note, if donning a handbag, choose a structured option that can hang from the elbow (refer to the “pants” image for an example). As an alternative, an envelope clasp clutch would suffice.

The Hair

One of the most exciting aspects of the evening is sure to be the women’s hairstyles. The early '60s were a shifting time for hair as well, as higher volume came into vogue, though still with some restraint. For an easy to achieve shoulder length style, try pinning the sides back with a curl towards the neck. The top should have a bit of volume, or a side swept bang. Be sure to work with the hair that you have, rather than trying to fight against is, as this will surely lead to frustration and failure. Many of the “Mad Men” hairstyles are difficult to achieve, and impossible to describe in so brief an article, so it is recommended to do your research before attempting a style.

For Men

The Suit

The staple of the "Mad Men" style  wardrobe is without a doubt the American suit. The cut should be thicker at the shoulder and chest, while narrower at the waist to create a V-shape. The jackets tend to be a bit longer at the bottom, just below the belt. Lapels should be trim and narrow with a breast pocket for silk squares (more on pocket squares later). Understated patterns are appropriate, such as a thin pinstripe or woven fabric. If your are unable to purchase a full suit, try to match your jacket to your pants as best as possible in color, while also paying attention to matching fits. If your jacket is fitted, so too should be the pant. A fitted jacket with baggy pant, or vice versa, will create a sloppy and disheveled look. “Express” carries a full line of suits that fit well within the “Mad Men” theme, ranging from $200-$300 dollars. This may seem out of your “Fancy” budget, but you will certainly get a lot of wear from the investment.

The Shirt

Possibly the only element of the evening that does not allow for much variance, the men’s shirt should almost certainly be white. Any white button-down shirt will do, provided its sleeves are long enough to poke out just beyond the jacket’s cuff, about a quarter of an inch. If you haven’t been fitted for a dress shirt in the past, try doing so for free at any men’s suiting shop, such as “Men’s Warehouse.” At the very least, you’ll walk away with a better understanding of the proper fit for your body, including the recommended size of the collar. A well-fitting shirt can make all the difference in your outfit, as it should be as form fitting as possible while at the same time allowing some room to breathe. If you’re looking to save money, this would be a key area, as really a simple white dress shirt that you already own would do fine. Your jacket will cover it after all.

The Accessories

When attempting to achieve the “Mad Men” look, the pocket square is essentially mandatory. As you may have not previously noticed these for sale, you may have simply not been looking for them, as they are literally in every department store or men’s suiting shop. Simple and inexpensive, the square will really complete your look. Opt for a plain white linen to really fit the look, or add a bit of color if you’re looking for flair. As for the fold, a simple square fold will suffice, though you can be a bit more daring with a multi-point tuck if you wish. See the following website for folding techniques:

www.brooksbrothers.com/fold-a-pocket-square/pocketsquare.tem

The men’s tie is another avenue in which to express your individuality. Typically a patterned tie was worn, the slightest bit higher than the current fashion, about one inch above the belt. Do not feel obligated to match your tie to your pocket square, or even your suit. For accuracy, look for muted colors, though black and grey are not necessary. This could be another place to save money, as most of you will already have a suitable option at home.

If the lack of matching pocket squares and ties is making you nervous, the shoes and belt should be more in your comfort zone. These two items are appropriate to match, and both should be brown or black leather. A simple black dress shoe will do, though be sure it is in perfect condition. If you choose to wear a shoe you already own, visit Aldo at the mall to pick up a shine kit for under $8. The simple act of shining your shoes will go a long way to complete your outfit. If you decide to buy a new pair, buy a mahogany brown for grey suits if you’re looking for excitement, or stick to black for a classic look. If you’re suit is black, you should be wearing a black shoe. Remember the tie and pocket square will remove the “tuxedo” vibe that could accompany black shoes on a black suit. Aldo has an extensive dress shoe collection, as will any department store carrying shoes.

The Hair

After all the work you’ve applied to selecting your outfit, don’t mess it up with the hair. Whether your hair is long or short, it should be gelled or greased with a side part where possible. If your hair is cut in a buzz style, a fedora might be a good choice. For detailed instructions on how to achieve the “Mad Men” hair, visit the following website.

http://artofmanliness.com/2009/10/27/the-mad-men-guide-to-a-manly-haircut/

A Final Note on Costume

All of the above advice is simply that, advice. You should feel encouraged to incorporate your own sense of style, while using this article as a guideline from which to glean inspiration. As you’re selecting the pieces for your outfit, stop and think now and then if you are falling into the “costume” trap. The event is inspired by “Mad “Men” after all, and is not to be mistaken for a costume party. Inevitably there will be a few guests who simply cannot resist the costume aspect, and they will surely be appreciated. If you choose to shop in a vintage store, be sure to balance your ensemble with some contemporary pieces. A vintage dress is great, provided it is accessorized with modern options. Remember, this should be a fun challenge to create a modern version of the early 1960’s vibe, and hopefully a bit easier with this article. See you Friday!

Stay Fancy!

About Fancy Fridays: Fancy Fridays are events geared toward fun, fanciness, fabulousness, friendship, frolicking and fundraising for worthy causes. Participants dress in their fanciest finery and participate in a pre-mapped pub crawl to various sponsored events. It's fun. It's fancy. It's for a good cause.