Amexica Grill: Ole! A Combination of Taste and Style

Open less than six months, Amexica Grill is one of the newer restaurants in uptown Caldwell, offering Mexican and some American fare, with an eclectic twist.

The dining room atmosphere speaks of the cuisine's culture in a cool and classy way; it's not all "Cinco De Mayo" like a Chevy's, or wanna-be hipster, with exposed air vents on the ceiling like Chipotle.

Large wood tables and booths take up the main dining area, which is framed with yellow walls. The ends of the booths have framed pictures on them of notable Mexicans. A pair of nearly 6-foot fake cactuses are also present, as is a full-size Mexican flag on the wall (next to an American one), with some sombreros thrown in for good measure.

Little touches abound: a maraca or two sits on every table, as do little containers of salt-lemon seasoning, between the salt and pepper.

Finally, some colorful and abstract artwork hangs on the walls, made by students of Jefferson School. I sat next to first-grader Isabella Camerino's portrait of floating numerals. It's a great local touch that works well.

The urge to not shake my maraca a few times was not given into only by having yet another nacho—a basket of multi-colored chips along with water served in a vintage-style bottle arrived at my table immediately after sitting. A nearby table made up for it later, as someone there had a quick jam session. I kept to the rhythm with my chip chewing.

Menu: This isn't Taco Bell

In the four-panel menu, quesadillas, fajitas, enchiladas, tacos, sandwiches and more await your selection in various sauces. 

Some are appetizers, most are entrees and many are unique. All have price points that tempt one to try more than one thing, though generous portion sizes make that tough.

For a starter, I wanted the fried pickles ($5), but they were sold out, so I ordered the queso fundido norteno. It was a pleasing blend of poblano pepper strips, caramelized onions, Chihuahua cheese and chorizo. It was spicy—and the four warm, fluffy tortillas that came with it were just the right size to hold it all in, though I limited myself to filling just two.

For choosing an entree, I was perplexed. Monica, the waitress, likes the Tilapia Veracruz style ($11.50), which has the fish baked in a banana leaf with diced tomatoes, capers and Spanish olives. Under the "House Specialties" section, I opted for the Poblano Chicken Mole ($9.75), which promised a blend of "spicy chilies and Mexican chocolate made into ... a mole sauce." 

I was now full-bore into eating the nachos, so I ordered a side of homemade chipotle salsa ($3)—there are six varieties made fresh on premises.

Mexican food places are sometimes a letdown in the non-alcoholic beverage department, usually having the typical fountain drinks found anywhere. I was surprised to see a selection of Jarrito's Mexican sodas in various flavors ($1.75), and even Coca-Cola in tall glass bottles ($2.25). That's a real treat—if you don't know, Coke is made with real cane sugar in Mexico—none of that fructose corn syrup stuff.

The fresh-made Sangria ($9.50 for a pitcher) looks to be a treat.

Then it was time for my entree. The Poblano was two pieces of chicken on the bone (breast and drumstick) smothered in the chocolate sauce, the juicy meat sliced away from the bone with ease, and was the perfect vehicle for this unlikely concoction. It seemed to register on my taste buds in waves; first it was spicy, then cool and chocolate-ly. It was a satisfying dish, and it's a hoot to say, "I had chocolate for dinner!" Or, "I had chicken for dessert!"

The Government of Amexica

Co-owner Mike Dattolo has a lot of experience in the restaurant business—as a boy, he was already helping his dad make pies at Joe's Pizza, a 40-year plus Caldwell institution that was at the exact same address that Amexica is today.

"We're a work in progress," Dattolo said.

Maybe he's a perfectionist, as Amexica seems to be a solid effort in vibe and taste out of the box. The one thing missing, however, is dessert ... unless one counts the cute "lucky taco" cookie that arrived at my table with the check. He tells me improved menus (graphically) are on the way, and adds, "we also do catering ... "

As if on cue, catering associate Peter J. Furris passes by and adds, "that's one of the thrust areas of our business."

Dattolo doesn't want all the credit: "[Partner and chef] Hector Leonar came up with this concept ... it's his brainchild."  

On my way out, I started chatting with an older couple from Essex Fells who tried Amexica Grill on a whim. They were en route to another (Italian) restaurant, but cut their ride short.

"It seemed interesting—look at this presentation," the gentleman said, pointing to his tilapia. "We'll be back."

At a Glance: Amexica Grill

Address: 392 Bloomfield Ave., Caldwell

Phone: 973-228-9555

Web site: www.amexicagrill.com

Serving: lunch (sitdown/takeout), dinner. Delivery and catering also offered.

Reservations: not required

Liquor: BYO

Cost: low to mid-priced ($-$$)

Recommended: Poblano Chicken Mole

Bottom line: 

Amexica Grill is a one-of-a-kind entry into The Caldwells dining scene, with authentic Mexican dishes, fused with American culinary creativity, at great prices.