Caldwell's Escape to the Mediterranean

The newly-opened Taximi Restaurant is the latest entry to Caldwell's "restaurant row" of Bloomfield Avenue, serving cuisine from a new place on the world map. It may be the first-ever true Greek restaurant in The Caldwells.

Atmosphere

Walking into Taximi is a gradual immersion in custom Greek-influenced style. The vestibule is covered in Mediterranean-style blue tile, which opens up to the waiting area. After the hostess takes your coat, she escorts you into the main dining room, which is almost like a movie set.

Thick stone-faced columns divide up the dining room area, with additional accoutrements such as plants helping to create spacious nooks for tables. A soft color palette also contributes to the comfortable, yet formal feel of the room. The lighting is mostly soft, but strategically brighter on the showpiece: an estimated 65-foot-by-20-foot high tile mosaic on the right wall. Hand painted, the image depicts a typical coastal Grecian town, in addition to some tasteful female statue images. It's striking. The overall impact is that you're not simply in a square room, but somewhere ... and it is in the Mediterranean region.

Cuisine Authentic to Adventurous

Greek food is not as common as some other regions (yet), but there's something for everyone on the menu, from the initiated to the first-timer.

The mezedes (appetizers) selections include the manitari, a portobello mushroom  "flamed in Metaxa" and gigantes, braised white beans with fresh tomato and herbs. The oktapodi skaras is grilled octopus with lemon and olive oil.

For the entrees, there are the staples like paidakia (grilled lamb chops, $38) and mousaka (eggplant, $17), and dishes that come from deeper in the Grecian cookbook. 

Seafood plays a big role; in addition to specials like striped bass and trout, on the regular menu is the youvetsi thalassina ($49). Made for two to share, it's a combination of shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, baby lobster tails and even the fish of the day combined with Greek saffron and orzo pasta—all in a pot. 

On the beef side, there are the brizola moshari (rib-eye steak, $28) and filet mignon (perhaps there's no fancy Greek translation for that?).

One can get a kebob in beef, lamb or chicken ($16-35)—all have tomato, peppers, onions and mushrooms on the skewer along with the meat.

As I looked over the menu, bread was immediately brought to my table, along with olives and cheese, served on a clamshell plate. My waiter poured my souroti sparkling water for me.

For my mezedes, I ordered the garides santorini, which is gulf shrimp "baked in tomato, feta cheese and retsina wine." It arrived fast and was hot. The handful of medium-sized peeled shrimp were presented in a light tomato sauce. Chunks of tomato interacted well with the feta cheese and some salad leaves (arugula?), creating a refreshing flavor that is not usually characteristic of a hot dish. When no one was looking, I finished it all off by dipping my bread in the plate to get the last of it—it was my way of creating Italian/Greek fusion dining.

My main course was the kokorra ($16), a boneless chicken breast "rubbed in olive oil and oregano seasoning." The piece of chicken was large and was almost cooked to a crisp on the outside—the olive oil and herbs again made a fresh, almost light-tasting flavor. The dish was complemented by roasted potatoes and string beans that received the same flavor treatment. 

Desserts offered include halva, a semolina cake, baklava and the popular yiaouti me meli ($6), a popular yogurt, honey and walnut creation. I opted for a cup of Greek coffee, which was freshly brewed and the galaktobouriko, a semolina custard that is almost cake-like with a thin crust, covered in an orange-lemon syrup. It was a great way to cap off a nice meal.

The interesting thing about my dinner was that it was flavorful with the same tastes I've had many times, but in different ways; it was familiar, yet new, offering a nice change of pace to the bored and perhaps not-so-adventurous palette.

As I enjoyed my coffee, the live music started.

Behind the Scenes

Throughout my dining experience, it was clear that Taximi pays attention to detail, enhancing everything for a truly engrossing dining experience. It's an approach that harkens back the restaurants of yesteryear.

Numerous times, I noted the staff double-checking things like place settings and even their own ties! Fresh silverware was brought out between courses; water glasses were re-filled. This was all achieved in an almost clandestine, invisible manner. The wait staff worked with an non-invasive synergy.

It's a certain kind of commitment to serving the public that sometimes seems lost in newer eateries.

After dinner I spoke with my waiter, Taso Apostolopoulos. It turns out that the amiable and ambitious 20-something is the son of owner Gus Apostolopoulos. His father is no stranger to the restaurant business; in fact, standing outside Taximi, you can see another one of his eateries—the Caldwell Diner.

"We also own and operate Bruschetta in Fairfield," Taso Apostolopoulos said, "and we had the North Star Diner in Wayne, and before that ... (laughs) my father has been in the industry since before I was born!"

As if it wasn't enough to be the only Greek restaurant in The Caldwells, another unique aspect of Taximi is the live music. The word "Taximi" actually translates to an improvised segment of music. Here, taximis are handled by the employees. Taso is the keyboardist during some of the impromptu, or Taximi, jams. Almost everyone—from his father to others in the kitchen—performs. 

"I play when it's not too busy to do so," Taso Apostolopoulos said. "On Saturday nights, it's hard to play!"

On this night, the timing was right for live Greek music. I finished my meal and the other three tables were served their main courses.

Taso and a chef (complete with his working whites) took a small stage in one corner, and we were treated to live Greek instrumentals. The music filled up the room in a way that pre-recorded music never can and the idea of the staff performing is novel without being kitschy—it was a quality performance.

At-A-Glance: Taximi Restaurant

Address: 350 Bloomfield Ave., Caldwell

Phone: 973-287-6803

Web site: www.taximigreekcuisine.com

Serving: Tuesdays through Sundays 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.

Reservations: recommended, but not required

Liquor: BYOB

Cost: mid- to higher-priced ($$- $$$)

Recommended: kokorra, galaktobouriko

Bottom line: The restaurant may be named after an improvisational music cue, but Taximi is certainly not off the cuff. It's a well-constructed and performed concerto of a Greek dining experience.