Get it While it's Hot: Bangkok Kitchen Adds a Kick

Since opening nearly 10 years ago, Bangkok Kitchen has earned a reputation as an offbeat local eatery that offers authentic and affordable Thai cuisine.

Dining Room Design

As soon as you walk in, there's an approximately 3-foot high metal work of art. Ornate and Eastern in design, it's not clear what it is, but you certainly can't miss it.

The floor plan maximizes the somewhat small dining area that features many tables, but doesn't feel too tight.

The somewhat linear nature of the room is counter-balanced by a long, black leather bench along one wall that replaces chairs for the tables it's next to.

Warm tones of red and orange on the textured walls and table tops are contrasted by the black chairs and framed artwork throughout the dining room; the photography captures various aspects of Thai culture, from cityscapes to sculpture.

Pleasant Asian pop music was playing; a cover version of some 1990s Celine Dion song, to be (almost) exact.

The Menu—Authentic and Abundant

The regular menu is printed in black and white and features chicken, beef, seafood and vegetarian dishes.

The appetizers are definitely popular; it seemed everyone was ordering the dumplings (regular steamed, $6.95, vegetarian, $5.95).

The spring rolls ($5.95) were a close second, rolling by my seat several times. They're filled with "glass" noodles, shrimp, chicken and vegetables.

No matter the main "body" of the entree dish, expect the flavor dressing to stand out; curry powder, chili sauce and even coconut milk are used heavily.

Highlights include the vegetable green curry ($10.95), and the opposite side of things, the pineapple fried rice ($11.95).

The specials menu was a work of art on it's own, running a good 6-feet wide and 3-feet high posted on the wall. Customers would get up from their seats to read it's colorful writing that contained almost as many appetizers and dinners as the normal menu.

Of note were two entrees: a Saturday- and Sunday-only special of a half roasted duck in a "special Bangkok Kitchen gravy" for $19.95 and pan-seared filet of strawberry bass ($16.95), which is topped with mango sauce.

A lineup of sodas is offered along with an interesting array of tropical drinks like mango and coconut juice. Alcoholic beverages are BYO, with most customers exercising that option during my visit.

The dessert menu contains many delights; in fact, one can go bananas—fried with cream of coconut or strawberry sauce. Banana leaves are also offered.

The standard chocolate and vanilla ice cream flavors are joined by the exotic ginger, mango and lynchee varieties, and even bean on occasion, which is popular in Asian countries.

My Dinner: When You're Hot, You're Hot

For starters, I ordered the grilled shrimp salad ($7.95) off the specials board. It was surprising how uniquely flavorful this dish was. The five, medium-sized shrimp were lightly covered with a nice spice, and were good enough, but it was what was underneath that really defined the taste. Diced cucumber with green and orange peppers, along with red onion and cilantro, were tossed in a chili-lime dressing. It was fruity, yet spicy—a home run.

For my entree, I  decided on the chicken and string beans ($10.95) from the regular menu.

Small pieces of tender chicken and small shoots of string beans were augmented by white rice, onions and peppers.

It was a good mix, though it would have been nice to have a little more chicken on the plate. It was also hot, as in spicy—it was like "wham" on the taste buds.

As for a beverage, I decided to try the hot chamomile tea ($2.25), which was served in a traditional pot and cup.

I also squeezed in an order of "red sticky rice pudding," which was heated black rice mixed with strawberry sauce and vanilla ice cream on top. It was hot and cold, a sweet ying-and-yang right on my plate.

The rice tasted good on its own; the warm patty had a nice "bite" to it, with the strawberry sauce a nice touch.

The ice cream was literally the topper and brought it all together.

What's Behind Bangkok?

Even during early dinner time on Thursday, the restaurant started filling up fast.

Linda Kim, of Caldwell, said she loves the restaurant as she was wrapping up a dinner with friends.

"It was very good, very spicy," she said.

Pointing toward the back area, she added, "they're so nice to their customers, too."

Scott Mackin is a co-owner of Bangkok Kitchen, but he's not a cook. Still, he's a vital part of the operation "running the front end" with a nimble and friendly approach, talking to customers while seating and serving them.

"Here's the guy you want to talk to," he said, pointing to his business partner.

Co-owner Peton Kocha came to America 30 years ago. His background in the food business is storied, "my dad cooked my mom cooked" and had restaurants in Thailand, England and Manhattan, he said.

He's one of 11 children, most of whom are in the restaurant business. One of his sisters is married to Mackin. Out of all the family specialties, his favorites on the menu include the hangar steak and the duck.

In addition to being a cook, he also personally designed the dining room. "I need to be creative," he said.

There's an energy and enthusiasm to him that seems to translate to his endeavors well.

Kocha plans to apply his creative energy to keeping Bangkok Kitchen going, "we intend to stay another 10 years ... we are renewing the lease," he said.

He also plans on developing another restaurant, called Open The Sesame in Springfield. In addition to Thai, Japanese cuisine will be infused into the menu.

When I compliment him on the overall look, I see my opportunity, and ask: "What is that thing near the door?"

"It's a traditional Thai birdcage," he said with a laugh. "In northern Thailand, it's considered good luck."

It seems to be working.

Address: 391 Bloomfield Avenue, Caldwell

Phone: 973-618-9975

The bottom line: There's no "Thai" for first place—Bangkok Kitchen is tops in offering a satysfying Thai dining experience.