Waverly Restaurant A Familiar Stop for Comfort Food

Maybe it had something to do with it being St. Patrick's Day. Or maybe it was the early summer-like weather. At any rate, I had never seen so much hugging in one restaurant since the final episode of Hell's Kitchen.

But that's typical at the , a Madison landmark now in its 29th year, where the regulars greet each other like every lunch is a family reunion. You can trace the history of the Rose City through the many old photos that hang on the walls, or get an oral re-telling from the old-timers who pack the booths and pick up their calls from the house phone.

The Waverly has an impressive breakfast and lunch menu that's set apart with some eclectic elements. The regular crowd knows what it wants. There's no printed menu, so peruse the many whiteboards that cover the walls behind the counter to help make your selection. There's an assortment of pancakes and omelettes for breakfast, 10 kinds of hot dogs, turkey cutlets, cheesesteaks, reubens, Pittsburgh Pride sandwiches (all topped with fries, cole slaw and tomato), wraps, paninis, nine different burgers, a rasher of triple decker sandwiches, and even fish and chips. There's also a vast frozen yogurt menu.

Looking for a reliable sandwich, I ordered the fresh-carved turkey served open-face on buttered rye (your choice of bread) with homemade stuffing and green beans. I got the first cut from a bird fresh out of the oven and carved right there, dressed in real gravy that didn't look like dyed flour thanks to the home cooking of Mary Beth Donato, sister of owner Jim Donato Jr., son of original owner Jim Donato Sr., who still works there.

"We've got a family atmosphere here," Jim Jr. said, explaining the Waverly's longevity. "We've been here for years, we've lived here for years, so we're a longtime part of Madison."