Master Sandwich Builder Opens Maplewood Deli

I've been having lunch for 49 years, but now I finally know how to build a sandwich.

Oh, anybody can slap some ingredients between two pieces of bread, but few can craft a midday meal like Sean Flood, owner of the new Maplewood Deli & Grille. I got to slap an apron on and get a lesson first hand. And he even let me work that gleaming, razor sharp, silent slicer (long a secret desire).

Use fresh bread. Use fresh everything.

Start with the densest ingredient (cheese), and stack up to the lightest (be generous); and finally create a "nest" of chilled shredded lettuce on top that serves to hold the dressing and spices of choice.

I sliced some rye (thin) and some snappy provolone, then shaved off some irresistible slices of roast beef, which Flood cooks himself. It's deliciously rare. After giving it "the works," I greedily grabbed the bottle of his homemade Russian Dressing.

I was out of my league.

"Let me show you," he said, eagerly snatching the bottle.

"You want to make sure you get some Russian with every bite." I watched as he expertly framed the perimeter of the open sandwich and cross-hatched the inside. He added the top bread slice, cut the creation diagonally and turned the cut sides outward before serving--"You eat with your eyes first." I ate that sucker with everything I had.

This past Saturday, Maplewood welcomed Sean back to the area with the grand opening of his latest venture, Maplewood Deli & Grille, located at 149 Maplewood Avenue directly across from Ricalton Square downtown. Doors have actually been open for three weeks, and it's been SRO at peak hours from the get-go.

Many locals remember Sean's work from the landmark Campus Sub Shop in South Orange, which operated from 1976 until he lost his lease in 2002. It was a major hit with locals and also attracted a regular celebrity clientele--although I'll bet Zach Braff never got to go behind the counter and work the slicer.

Born and raised in South Orange, Flood has always been focused on a new home for his eatery. "I've been on the hunt for another space since 2002," he said, "and this one was right."

The interior is spacious and welcoming, with wide awake table service providing a comfortable eat-in experience, along with fast, full service take-out in the rear. During the busy afternoon I was there, Flood was everywhere: crafting many of his signature subs, working the grill, or suddenly sitting with customers and getting feedback and joking with their kids (yes, bring 'em). His affability is matched only by his discipline and passion for food, people and his eatery.

Many of his choices are distinct, including the use of Fair Trade organic coffees (benefiting village workers over the large roasters), the proceeds of which benefit breast cancer research and rain forest preservation. His napkins, crayons (kids love the butcher paper on the tables) and cardboard are all recycled material. He also provides his wall space to a local artist each month, and for December the evocative photos of Elizabeth Winchester grace the walls. Each day, at least two gluten-free specials are offered ("Marcy's Menu"), and any sub or sandwich can be made with gluten-free bread supplied by the Maplewood folks at Solutions to Savor. There's even a dedicated gluten-free toaster.

But I'm hungry again.

I tucked into a "Walk On," an encore from his Campus Sub deli days (hot turkey, diced sauteed potatoes, gravy and provolone) that is deeply satisfying and difficult to put down. The top notch "Sloppy Joe" can be done with Swiss and turkey, roast beef, ham or corned beef, and comes infused with that great Russian dressing and Flood's homemade slaw--the best I've had. I took up manager John Meade's suggestion to try Saturday's soup special (homemade, of course): a smooth seafood chowder that had lots of shrimp and fish.

Yes, Mom, there are vegetables.

Terrific ones are layered on the grilled "Italian Veggie Sandwich" (breaded eggplant, roasted peppers, fresh mozzarella), and a bright "Maplewood Deli Salad" (topped with sliced pears, dried cranberries, candied pecans, red onion and a pear) is ordered often. Any salad can be topped with chicken or steak or any other ingredient in the house--just ask. And although the menu is dizzying, any spontaneous request is happily accommodated. You can also enjoy the entire menu for dinner; they're open until 8:00 (6:00 on Sunday).

"When I put 'Maplewood' in the name for the deli, I took that seriously. That comes with a big responsibility to this community," Flood explained. Saturday's ribbon cutting included the Maplewood township committee, other local merchants and officials from the Maplewood Village Alliance, all of whom were very supportive during construction. "I'm very happy. Maplewood is very pro-business. We got a lot of help from the town."

From all appearances, Maplewood Deli & Grille is returning the favors with gusto.

Maplewood Deli & Grille is open Mon-Sat 11:00am-8:00pm, and Sun 11:00am-6:00pm. Phone: 973-762-6688. Kid friendly. Free delivery will be available soon and you can track updates and daily specials on their facebook page.