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Housebreaking The New Furbaby

Helpful hints for housebreaking a puppy or kitten

Housebreaking Puppies & Kittens

That cute little face was irresistible, and the time felt right to bring home the furry baby. Now comes the fun (or, for some, the hard) part – integrating that wiggly fluffball into the home with (hopefully) minimal stress incurred on all parties, and at the top of the list is housebreaking.

Housebreaking a new puppy or kitten presents challenges, so all experts agree that consistency in training is key. For example, because baby animals need to eliminate more frequently than adults, it’s important to keep them on a regular feeding schedule. According to the Humane Society of the United States, “…The schedule teaches them that there are times to eat, times to play and times to potty” (www.humanesociety.org/animals/dogs/tips/housetraining_puppies.html). By establishing a consistent feeding schedule, the result will be a consistent elimination schedule.

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Puppies

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Take the puppy outside frequently (experts recommend at least every 2 hours; the younger the puppy, the more frequently they should go out), and also first thing upon waking up, during and after play, and especially after eating and drinking. Establish a preferred spot in the yard where you would like the puppy to eliminate, and take him/her there every time you go out. Signs that he/she is ready to “go” include circling and sniffing the area (http://pets.petsmart.com/content/new-pet/dog/how-to-house-train-a-puppy.shtml). Once the puppy “goes”, immediately reward this desired behavior with lots of praise.

It is recommended that you pick up the puppy’s water dish approximately 2 hours before bedtime, and do not leave the food dish out more than 20 minutes after feeding (though it’s hard to imagine your puppy leaving any food in the dish!).

Crate training has proved to be a wonderful tool for housebreaking. “Experts recommend confining the puppy to a defined space, whether that means in a crate, in a room, or on a leash. As your puppy learns that he needs to go outside to do his business, you can gradually give him more freedom to roam about the house” (http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/guide/house-training-your-puppy). Crate training or confining to a defined space will help reinforce that eliminating “where you live” is undesirable.

Supervising the new puppy as often as possible during the housebreaking phase will help you remain consistent because you’ll be able to observe puppy’s behavior just prior to “having to go”, and you’ll become familiar with the signs of when your pet needs to go out. Supervising the baby will also aid when you see your pet about to go in the house; interrupting this undesired behavior with a loud noise such as clapping when you catch him in the act can make him stop; then you must immediately bring him outside to the “spot”, and be sure to praise him if he finishes eliminating there.

Kittens

Many experts believe that kittens learn to eliminate in a particular area from their mothers. This is good news for those of us who have the kitten’s mother in the house. However, many people adopt or rescue very young kittens who no longer have their mothers for whatever reason, and the job of making sure the kitten knows where to eliminate falls to the adoptive “parent”, unless another cat in the house is willing to take on this task.

In some cases, a kitten may have been born of a feral mother who possibly taught the kitten to eliminate in a clump of leaves, or in the dirt of a garden. This kitten can be taught to use the litterbox if the box contains a relatively similar absorbent like a clay type litter (https://www.petfinder.com/cats/cat-behavior-and-training/cat-litterbox-training/).

Very young, abandoned orphan kittens will need to be stimulated to eliminate right after feeding, and it will take a few weeks to introduce them to using a box (http://www.hartz.com/Cats/Training_and_Play/Training/how_to_housetrain_your_kitten.aspx).

Most kittens can learn to use the litterbox by around 4 weeks of age, and you can help your kitten figure this out by gently placing her in the litterbox 20 to 30 minutes after feeding (http://www.catchannel.com/media/behavior/litter/kitten-training.aspx.pdf). Scratching the litter with a finger will help her figure out what to do (http://www.kittenbaby.com/litterbox-training.php). Remember to praise her lavishly when she does what she’s supposed to do in the box.

It may take some time and a bit of trial and error to figure out which kind of litter your cat prefers, and if he prefers a covered litterbox as opposed to an open one. Cats, like people, have their own, individual personalities, and the litterbox that one cat likes may not be the litterbox that another cat in the house prefers. Generally speaking, cats prefer a quiet, out-of-the-way spot to eliminate, so it’s best to keep the litterbox in a room or corner that is low-traffic.

If you have trouble housebreaking your pet in spite of your best efforts, consider consulting a training professional. Persistent elimination problems may also be indicative of illness, and in these cases a visit to the vet is recommended.

Patience, love and consistency will see you through the housebreaking phase. Hang in there; the results will be worth it.

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