Cooking Up a Second Career on Mill Street

Mid-life can be a milestone of relaxation and recreation. But at 52, Bruce Koris is sautéing a new career and putting more steam into his life, too.

“I had been kicking around the idea of opening up a restaurant
for a long time,” says Koris, who is the chef, waiter and accountant of his new restaurant, A Battered Tartan Fish and Chips at 235 Mill St.

Koris, who is half-Scottish, grew up in Basking Ridge. For many years
he worked as a draftsman after he completed a degree in mechanical engineering.

“I hated that type of work,” says Koris, who has an artistic flair and yearned for a more creative outlet. “I wanted to do more of a craft.”

The odyssey began when Koris was in his 30s and went to Scotland
to visit a family friend. While there, he sought out opportunities to learn the craft of cabinetry.

“Over there cabinetry is more of an art,” Koris explains. “There are craft shops everywhere.” Honing his craftsman skills, Koris decided to stay in Scotland for nearly seven years.

Turns out, during this seminal interlude he became a fish and chips enthusiast.

“Our national take-out food is pizza. But in the United Kingdom, it is fish and chips,” says Koris. “I thought if I ever open a restaurant, it will be a shop catering to fish and chips.”

The modern fish and chips shop, or chippy, originated in the 19th
century providing stock meal for the working classes. 

Koris returned stateside and lived in Philadelphia and, eventually settled in Moorestown nine years ago. To make a living, he returned to some comparable jobs in the mechanical engineering field.

But, a couple of years ago as the economy plunged, he lost his job, and Koris decided once and for all to turn lemons into lemonade. Drawing on his creative abilities, he enrolled in the culinary arts program at Burlington County College.

“They have a successful program at BCC,” says Koris. “It has gained so much in popularity that they have had to build a new facility in Mount Holly,” which will include a high-end industrial kitchen when the facility opens this fall. Koris will graduate with an associate degree in culinary arts in January.

Before opening A Battered Tartan, Koris also researched and sought advice from friends. He wanted to keep the café authentic, but appealing to the locals.

“Believe it or not, Moorestown has a lot of expatriates from the UK living here,” says Koris.

A Battered Tartan is on the first floor of a corner building, which is part of the national historic district of Moorestown. The building formerly housed a grocery store, an automotive garage and a couple of restaurants at various periods.

“An old-time Moorestonian told me there used to be a penny candy
store here years ago, too,” says Koris.

Portions are generous at A Battered Tartan. The eatery is small—less than 400 square feet—but comfortable and cozy. The eclectic menu, like a colorful crisscrossed tartan, is interlaced with British fare, plus some Asian and American fusion.

“While putting together the menu, I knew all people do not eat fish and chips,” says Koris, so he added dishes like cheesesteak spring rolls, a twist on the Philly classic of thin rib eye steak rolled into a spring roll, which have become so popular he “can’t keep them in the restaurant.”

Asian dishes, like Menchikatsu, are a nod to Koris’ Japanese-born wife, Tomie (pronounced to me á.) The couple—approaching 10 years of marriage—met in Canada during a skiing trip. The ground beef dish is mixed with onions and spices, coated with Panko bread crumbs, and fried till golden and crunchy.

“Everything is made fresh daily. I use no replacements. If I run out of an ingredient, I’m out,” says Koris.

Indeed, when asked which fish he uses, Koris states firmly, “Cod. And, every two days I pick up my fish, fresh and wet, from the distribution center in South Philadelphia. I don’t skimp.”

Hand cut chips, “just like in Great Britain,” shrimp or oyster po boy sandwiches, chicken choices made with Jersey vegetables grown
locally, and puddings, round out the menu.

The shop is open every day 11:30 a.m. until 8 p.m., except Sundays during the summer. Takeout and delivery are available.

Koris is waiting for health department approval to finish some wall alterations, enabling a more efficient work station, which will help with the rhythm of cooking and serving customers effortlessly.

“Last weekend we moved about 5 pounds of fish daily,” says Koris smiling. “Business is catching on.”