The 808 Bistro Premiers On Scarsdale Ave

Salvatore Cucullo Jr. is a C.I.A. trained chef, who grew up working in restaurant kitchens owned by his Italian family, along with various culinary venues of every stripe. He knows his Italian, but for as long as I have known him, his creativity has never been bound by borders.

Chef Cucullo can knock out a delicious fresh made version of Grandma's gnocchi in a basil-pomodoro sauce one moment, and in another, prepare a decadent baked macaroni and cheese with chunks of lobster and shrimp infused with truffle oil that will rocket your palate to foodie heaven.

That's why the premiere of the new 808 Bistro in Eastchester has so many Westchester folks excited.

Seasoned Chef Cucullo has partnered with Lynn Kozy in totally renovating, redesigning and re-inventing this 50-seat dining room, which had previously operated as Millenneo. (There was an original 808 Pub at this spot back in the 80's which had a notorious rep, but that was then.) Enter this restaurant now and you could easily be in some trendy NYC hotspot.

The bar has been moved back in and now glows nightly in a rainbow of alternating colors. Glistening ceramic tiles highlight the bar and dining room walls. Modern artworks and lighting add to the palette of colors. In contrast, starched white tablecloths are a perfect canvas for the vibrant dishes coming from the kitchen. The silver metal chairs softened by stressed brown leather seats offer comfort while dining.

Order your cocktail at the bar and you will notice the fresh mise en place of fruits and ingredients. In the French way, the house muddles its own cocktail mixes, intensifying flavors to the maximum. There are no pre-fab mixes here, so enjoy that opening round while perusing the menu.

Great starters on the opening menu include: seafood stuffed Chesapeake Bay top neck clams, a garlic bread 'tower' with Gorgonzola cream sauce, passion fruit BBQ glazed shrimp skewers with coconut marinated strawberries, crispy or grilled calamari with mixed greens and tomato tapanade, duck leg confit served with celeraic fennel slaw, and a fine cheese plate served with sliced apples, dried cranberries and toast points. There is a daily raw bar offering jumbo shrimp cocktail, fresh shucked oysters and little necks and oyster shooters.

Fresh salads include: baby arugula and shaved fennel with apples, roasted pistachios, herb crusted goat cheese, citrus vinaigrette, chopped iceberg with Gorgonzola and red wine vinaigrette, and a traditional Caesar with crispy romaine hearts and shaved parmesan. Fresh Burrata mozzarella, with its decadent creamy center, is available served with sliced local vine ripened tomatoes, basil, and fire roasted peppers. Entree size salads can be prepared by adding chicken, steak, shrimp or scallops.

Hearty pastas include: Chianti stained pappardelle with beef, pork and veal ragout and pork and parmesan pansotti with shitake chardonnay cream.

Poultry, meat and fish selections are beautifully plated: wonderful Tuscan grilled wild salmon with grilled vegetable pate, a delightful pistachio crusted halibut, sauteed spinach, tangerine beurre blanc, oven roasted chicken served with sweet sausage, hot cherry peppers, white wine and lemon, cowboy cut rib eye steak with Lyonnaise potatoes, tasty garlic studded oven roast pork served with smashed yucca and chared grape tomatoes, and Moroccan spiced New Zealand lamb chops with mint spaetzle and grilled pineapple. You'll be licking them to the bone.

Chef Cucullo did not forget his roots either, offering such basics as: chicken, veal or shrimp parmigiana, francese style, fra diavolo or marinara. And according to Chef, 30% of his menu will change weekly, offering new market specialties.

For dessert you must try the housemade fresh berry Napoleon with Grand Marnier cream, the 808 apple strudel with vanilla ice cream, or the creamy chocolate polenta. Yum!

For those of you not familiar with the Cucullo family, Sal's father Salvatore is

Chef/owner of the popular Fratelli Ristorante & Enoteca in New Rochelle.And while it's early in the game here, after several visits the warmth, greetings and good food appear to be melding well.

The 808 Bistro is located at 808 Scarsdale Ave., Scarsdale/Eastchester. The restaurant is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner from 11 am to 11 pm. Lunch main courses: $8 to $17. Sandwiches from $9 to $11. Dinner main courses: $15 to $32. Bar seating/cocktails. Take out. Major credit cards accepted. Proper casual dress. Handicapped accessible on side of building. Municipal parking; free evenings. Reservations suggested. Phone: 914-722-0808. www.restaurant808.com

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)