Bites Nearby: Agora Taverna

The food in Forest Hills is getting better and better.

Over the past few weeks, the Bites Nearby column has discovered an Indian eatery that, a , and

This week, Bites Nearby wanders over to Agora Taverna, a new Greek bistro that evokes the question: Why go all the way to Astoria?

Now open for about one month, Agora’s specialty is seafood, some of which comes in fresh from Florida or North Carolina, some of which comes in fresh from the Old County. The menu has everything from Striped Bass to Tilapia to Red Snapper. Not to mention the specials with Calamari, Sardines, Scallops, Shrimp and Filet of Soul.

All delicious, but manager Yanni Pappas thinks that Agora is going to develop a reputation for its octopus, one of his favorite meals.

Yannis, a native of Sparta, is quick to mention the other Greek dishes, too.  Moussaka ($7.95), layers of potato, eggplant and minced meat topped with béchamel; Spanakopita ($7.95), the traditional spinach and feta cheese pie; Shrimp Saganaki ($10.95), sautéed jumbo shrimp in tomato and feta sauce; Kotopoulo ($14.95), chicken breast marinated with rosemary and thyme; and Paidakia ($23.95), grilled lamb chops.

Of course, various other kinds of chicken, steak, lamb and pasta are on the menu, too. But they usually have a Greek – and often lemony – flair.

Ditto with the wines. Most originate in the vineyards of Greece, but there are some California vintages as well. Coffee rolls the same way. The Greek version, which is sand-roasted as per tradition, provides an instant jolt to the taste buds. In the cold beverage department, the frappes, an explosion of creaminess, sweetness and coffee, are worth the trip from Athens.

The desserts, again all Greek, are made on site. They include Milopita, granny smith apples, raisins and spices wrapped in phylo dough and served with ice cream; Loukoumades, honey dumplings sprinkled with walnuts and cinnamon; Ekmek, shredded phyllo, custard and pistachio whipped cream; and Karidopita, walnut sponge cake, cinnamon, cloves, honey sand honey syrup with vanilla ice cream.

The eatery’s colors on the outside and inside mimic the Greek flag, light blue and white. There is a high ceiling with wooden beams and wrapped bamboo overhead, and a plethora of natural sunlight throughout the establishment, as there are large windows on one entire side.

Pappas says that the idea was to create a welcoming, upbeat atmosphere offering a complete dining experience.

“You want to eat well, pay a small price, get good service,” he said. “The food is amazing, big portions, cheap, fresh…What else can you ask for?”

Address: 70-09 Austin Street.                        Phone: 718-793-7300.

Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to midnight; Saturday, 10 a.m. to midnight; and Sunday, 10 a.m. to midnight.

Prices: Most entrees are between $12 and $20. Side orders run from $3.95 to $12.95. Desserts are about $6. The children’s menu offers Meat Spaghetti, Chicken Fingers, Bifteki (spiced ground lamb and beef with Greek fries) or Penne for $5.95.

During the week, Agora offers lunch specials for $9 and $10.This includes a main course with a soup or salad.

On weekends, Agora offers an $11.95 brunch featuring mimosas.