Bites Nearby: Dirty Pierre's

The Bites Nearby column thinks that the following phrases are compliments: A proverbial hole in a wall; Pub grub; and A real neighborhood joint.

Meanwhile, the Bites Nearby column also believes that the following phrases are high praise bordering on worship: Quick service; All you can eat; and Juke box.

Needless to say, the Bites Nearby column really likes

Currently hidden by a scaffolding off Station Square, this restaurant serves a freshly ground hamburger on an English muffin all the time, a hits-the-spot brunch menu on weekends and on Tuesdays, there’s no limit on the mussels and French fries. The quesadillas and meatloaf platter are reasons for joy, too. The steak sandwiches are a bit messy, but the cleanup is part of the fun.

The ambiance might not be for everybody. The eating room is small with few tables and very little elbow room. The drinking section is located in the eating room and invokes the “Small bar, large drinks” philosophy. It can get a bit loud, too, especially if there’s a good football game on the television or a beloved song on the juke box.

The decor is kitschy eclectic. Neon signs and Christmas lights compete with photos of the Eiffel Tower, a leather biker jacket and a ship replica. And patrons get crayons to color on the tables.

The atmosphere is very relaxed. Many regulars might talk among each other or with staffers about life or past shared experiences. Queens accents and tee-shirts are encouraged…J-E-T-S!!!

The prices are another major draw. Consider the following: Grilled Chicken on a Muffin, $9.95; Bistro Burger, $9.75; Mini-Slammers, $7; Italian, French or NY Steak Sandwich, $15.75; Grilled Anouille, $8.95; and Popcorn Shrimp, $8.75.

There is also an entrée list that runs from Zippys Pasta for $15.95 to Grilled Skirt Steak with Garlic for $22. Pasta lovers will actually find many reasons to be happy.

The Tuesday Mussel Mania costs $26, but on other nights a full order is $22, while a half-order costs $10.75. Please understand that the garlicky broth is fantastic and often provokes diners to request more bread.

Weekend brunch carries a $16.95 price tag and includes options such as sangria, wine spritzer, mimosa and blood Mary. There are three-egg omelets up for grabs, but those with no heart worries might want to try Old Man Ed’s BLT with Cheese and Onion.

Address: 13 Station Square.
Hours: Brunch runs noon to 4 p.m. on weekends. 5 p.m. to Midnight on weeknights.