Bites Nearby: Network Cafe

Some might call it “shabby chic” and point out the red leather sofa, while others would probably describe it as “eclectic” and note the colorful, exposed brick walls. Still others wouldn’t be able to find appropriate adjectives for Network Café, thanks in part to its spiral metal staircase, downstairs lounge area and cozy ambiance.

Located where the Status Quo Restaurant once operated, defies definitions. Actually, it combines them – dive bar, romantic place for a third date, foody exploration site, French Bohemian lounge, potential hipster joint, maybe even neighborhood hangout.

Patrons can expect yellow tablecloth, blue-and-white checked towels, glass light fixtures on the wall, dim overhead lighting, menus made of laminated sheets of paper, a flat-screen television behind the bar, a super-sized bathroom, other patrons passionately making out at the bar and countless tchotchkes.

Then there are the attractive and friendly Albanian bar maids.

The happy hour is great (suggestion: the Coco Cosmo), and the relaxed atmosphere makes Network a great place for late-night drinks, too. But add this fact: There is no wine list, but Network sells a variety of standards.

The lunch specials are reasonably priced, but most menu items are standard pub grub, such as sandwiches, burgers, salads and soups. There are also many kebob orders with $13.95 or $14.95 price tags that include salad, rice and yogurt sauce. The pasta options are numerous as well. The Penne Caprese is the cheapest at $9.95, while the Rigatoni Florentina tops out at $11.95.

The Bites Nearby column strongly suggests the Albanian specialties, which come in large portions. Cungi te Mushta ($14.95) mixes stuffed zucchini with beef, veal, rice and vegetables covered in a yogurt garlic sauce. Possibly the most authentically Albanian dish is the Pasulsj ne Tave ($11.95), which combines slowly baked cannelloni beans with onions, parsley and paprika.

The best seafood option is the Atlantic Salmon ($16.95), which is sautéed with Dijon mustard and white wine sauce.

Address: 108-02 72^nd Avenue, just off Austin Street.

Phone: 718-263-5700.

Hours: Every day, noon to 1 a.m.

Specials: Catering, private party rentals.