A Traditional Taste of Portugal

Manuel Ferreira recently installed granite countertops in the windows of his 6-month-old business, Chaves a Portugues. Inspired by European-style counters where customers stand, they provide a space to enjoy a cup of coffee with a lightly sweetened traditional Portuguese custard pastry called pastel de nata ($1.50), or a warm and crunchy tosta mista (think panini; $6.50) with a bottle of Portuguese orange soda.

But there is so much more going on here than just new counters. Each of them is adorned with a touch of Portugal – a framed rooftop panorama; a traditional ceramic plate featuring The Rooster of Barcelos, a traditional symbol of love, luck and joy in Portugal; an icon of Our Lady of Fatima; or a Portuguese cooking magazine. Ferreira wants you to have no doubt of his pride and passion for his culture.

"I would describe this store as my own personalized introduction to the foods of a small country everyone has heard of, but are not really familiar with," Ferreira said. The name of the store pays homage to his parents, who hail from small villages just outside the Chaves region of Portugal.

Also on display on the counter is a large rack of local business cards, an idea that stemmed from Ferreira's former career in advertising. "This is turning into a bit of a hub, so I saw this as a way to help local businesses, to keep local consumers local," he said.

Next, you notice that the custom-made counters each have a large circle cut out in the middle of the granite to house a live orange tree, a special gift from a friend.

"Legend has it that Portugal was first populated by wealthy Romans and Greeks," Ferreira explained. He is quick to sprinkle his conversations with a dash of history. "The Greek word for orange is porucale, and orange trees just won't grow anywhere—they have to grow where it's warm and comfortable."

That symbolism is not lost on Ferreira, who shared some of the best compliments he has received since the store opened on Thanksgiving Day last year.

"People have come in and said it's cozy here – and that is exactly what I wanted to do, for people to feel comfortable and not necessarily feel forced to shop and spend a lot of money," he said.

The charm of Chaves a Portugues hits you the moment you cross the threshold. The walls are painted a pretty, happy blue , set with Portuguese ceramic tiles. Rows of metal shelves are laden with groceries in unfamiliar labels that draw you in for further inspection. Ferreira could put up signage, and may do so in the future, but he relishes the opportunity to strike up a conversation with customers, explaining what the item is and the history of why it is good.

He explained that the quality of these imports is evidenced by the simple ingredients used – like sea salt, olive oil and little sugar – with few preservatives or additives.

"Portugal is a small country with not a lot of space for factories for processing foods," he said. "Unlike a lot of American food, what you see is what you get."

From teas, cookies and chocolates to fruit nectars, pickled vegetables and canned and frozen fish, 95 percent of the groceries Ferreira sells are imported from Portugal. Even the pasta is Portuguese – albeit manufactured by a third-generation family that descended from Italians.

In addition to the canned fish – not just tuna and sardines, but squid, octopus, cod, mackerel and cockles – Ferreira sells premium salted cod called bacalhau. While some Italian specialty stores sell their baccala seasonally or only during the holidays, Ferreira designed and had built a custom case so that he could carry the preserved fish year-round; it sells for $10.99 a pound.

Chaves also offers more than a dozen varieties of olive oil ($6.99 - $14.99) – 90 percent of which are first-pressed, according to Ferreira. "The olive oils are similar, but differ slightly regionally," he added. "Like grapes, the regions reflect the flavors."

Ferreira is so passionate about introducing the flavors of Portugal to Americans because he feels the cuisine has been done a disservice until now.

"I think many Portuguese left their culture behind to acclimate and become Americanized," he said. "Unlike the Italians, I think they thought people here wouldn't like their cuisine."

He noted the presence of some area Portuguese chefs, such as Anthony Goncalves, owner/chef of 42 and Peniche restaurants in White Plains, and Rui Correia, owner/chef of Douro in Greenwich, Conn., and the soon-to-open Piri-Q here in Mamaroneck. While Ferreira commends them for their creativity and for including some Portuguese-inspired dishes on their menus, he feels more could be done to offer authentic and traditional Portuguese fare.

"It's an injustice because Portuguese food is so good, and it is so good for you," he emphasized. "It's very earthy, natural and pure, not overly spiced or smothered in sauces and gravy. It's healthy."

Beyond the food items, Chaves also carries a small selection of soccer (futebol) jerseys ($20 to $70), as well as a beautiful selection of handcrafted Portuguese pottery that are both decorative and utilitarian. Prices range from $5.99 for a mug to $45.99 for a large cooking pot.

Chaves is like the fruit on the orange tree in the window; it might be small and green right now, but is fully expected to grow, blossom and bear fruit.