Encore Bistro Serves Lusty Winter Fare

Lyon-bred David Masliah, proprietor of bustling French bistro Encore in Larchmont, originally received his hospitality training at a catering and management school in France. Locally, he had worked for one of Westchester's highly regarded grand dames of French haute cuisine, La Panetiere in Rye.

His vision had always been to bring the American dining public, as well as the growing local French community, a taste of 'casual home-style France' by way of a charming, reasonably priced bistro. That was almost a decade ago. David is now nearing his 10th successful year on Chatsworth Avenue.

I remember when Encore first opened its doors in March of 2000. It was an instant hit. The cozy 45-seat eatery exuded charm reminiscent of the side-street bistros found throughout the cities of France. The walls are donned in yellow paint, highlighted by colorful French posters, and strewn with artifacts. Lining one wall is a row of used French wine bottles, along with a collection of corkscrews. The petit copper-topped bar is lined with wooden wine containers. There is a well-worn luster to the room.

The kitchen is currently serving a new winter menu of compelling seasonal specialties and a prix-fixe lunch option that is easy on your wallet.

Special Hint: The new 3-course prix-fixe lunch, which is served Monday thru Saturday, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., includes a choice of appetizer, entree and dessert. Selections change daily. Cost is $13.50 per person. The regular a-la-carte menu is also available.

Special Hint: New winter plates du jour include fresh-made crepes served Monday nights; Tuesday evenings are devoted to mussels, including the ever popular moules frites; and Wednesdays are melted cheese nights, including such dishes as cheese fondue, raclette and more. Each special night has its own menu that changes weekly.

According to Masliah, all dishes at Encore are prepared from scratch. Via Chef de Cuisine Erwen Perez, the new regular menu includes such classic starters as pate maison, country-style pate served with French pickles; escargots baked with parsley, garlic and butter; tartare de thon, or fresh tuna tartar with capers, shallots, anchovies, sesame oil and fresh herbs; moules provencales ou au curry, which are steamed mussels in a white wine, caper, olive, tomato, onion and fresh herb broth, or in a creamy curry and white wine sauce; and a Napoleon de brie, with potato salad, fresh herbs and Dijon mustard vinaigrette.

Follow with a choice of your favorite fresh salads: salade de chevre chaud, meaning warm goat cheese toasts over mesclun salad with a house dressing; or salade parisienne, which includes frisee salad topped with smoked bacon, croutons, mushrooms and poached egg.

New winter poissons et viandes (fish and meat main courses) include such warming bistro fare as the classic cassoulet, a crock pot of sausages, smoked bacon, duck confit and white beans; steak frites, a grilled strip loin of beef served with the sauce of your choice; onglet grille, grilled hanger steak with choice of blue cheese, green peppercorn, or red wine and roasted shallots; croustillant de ris de veau, sauteed sweetbreads served crispy with whole grain mustard sauce; carre d'agneau persille, a roasted rack of lamb in a crust of fresh herbs with roasted garlic sauce; Saint Jacques au beurre blanc, sea scallops in parmesan cheese crust, leek fondue, white wine, lemon and butter sauce; and truite aux amandes, a sauteed trout in an amandine sauce. The frites here are, in this writers opinion, among the best in the county.

A carefully selected wine list covers the realm of French and international vintages. A daily selection of wines by the glass is written on a glass mirror on the wall. A list of specialty martinis is also served.

At lunch, Encore offers such additonal specialties as the salade nicoise, which has mesclun, tomatoes, string beans, potatoes, olives, hard boiled egg and tuna; a fresh quiche du jour; and classic croque monsieur, a hot ham and cheese sandwich with French fries and a side salad. The assiette de fromages, an assorted cheese plate, is served at lunch and dinner with apple, walnuts and a mesclun salad.

For dessert, save room for such changing, house-made sweets as the chocolate fondant, profiteroles, creme brulee, lemon tart, and tart tatin, the popular French apple tart.

Encore is located at 22 Chatsworth Ave., Larchmont, N.Y., across from the Larchmont Post Office. The restaurant is open for lunch Monday thru Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Price range at lunch: $9 to $17 a la carte. Dinner is served seven nights: 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday thru Thursday; till 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. on Sundays. Main courses at dinner: $18. to $26. Children's menu: $10.50. Major credit cards accepted. Casual dress. Free street parking in front; municipal parking at rear of the restaurant. Reservations accepted; suggested for larger groups. Phone: 914-833-1661. Fax: 914-833-1716. www.encore-bistro.com